Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Posted

Key on ,I get nothing on any of those pins???

find that 2 amp fuse, or at least that's what the schematic says,

The key is in run, not just on, right?, are your gauges active.

My nest step before tearing wiring harnesses apart would be to pull every fuse and test it and reinsert it, undo the connector plugs under the computer (there's 2 of them) and inspect and reconnect, one the ip wiring connector and the other is the body wiring connector as shown on page 55 of the TR1100 -T2 -T4 manual 2008.pdf manual.

kinarfi

Posted

Devildog,

I was looking through some of my drawings and found this, 2441466080104110397RTTmFT_th.jpg, go forward and backwards from this drawing and take a look at it and see if it helps, yours being a little older may it incorrect, but it does have the fuses numbered and the wire colors and it looks like there may be 3 fuses for the ecu, power, one for the normally open outputs and one for the normally closed outputs. It may be that some of this even came from the 2009 schematic.

Posted

Devildog,

I was looking through some of my drawings and found this, 2441466080104110397RTTmFT_th.jpg, go forward and backwards from this drawing and take a look at it and see if it helps, yours being a little older may it incorrect, but it does have the fuses numbered and the wire colors and it looks like there may be 3 fuses for the ecu, power, one for the normally open outputs and one for the normally closed outputs. It may be that some of this even came from the 2009 schematic.

Posted

Started pulling all wiring connections apart spraying cleaner and putting on dieelectric grease on and bam - One of the connector plugs going to the ECU was the problem, evrything works starts right up!!! Thanks for everyones help. Going for a short ride Sun ( not to far from the truck) see if its fixed.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I know this post is a tad old , but I bought an R2 because of electrical problems related to the fuse box behind the passenger seat near the ECU. I had to make my own relay/fusebox set up temporarily , but I have ordered one from rick @ silver bullet in the mean time. Heres what I have learned about the ECU harness and rear fuse box setup.

I cut the wiring , yes all of it. It was badly burnt and unrecognizable.

As far as the fuse box is concerned Basically there are 3 negative potential outputs , those are what turn on the fan , fuel pump , and main relay.

There are a couple of wires that are fused , and run to the ECU , one is on all the time , the other keyed.

The rest of the wires feed the gauges , the coil packs , and injectors , there could be some more , but the detail escapes me.

If your coil pack wiring has the proper + potential , as well as the injectors and computer. You can trick the computer in to starting and running. I bought 4 relays 50 amp from ebay , and a universal fuse box.

My renegade is running , and I do plan on repairing it properly when the harness/FB arrives , but I just thought id throw that out there , to let you know there is hope in making these engines run with the ECU. My first thought was to convert it to carb/distributor , but after a little wire tracing (very little thanks to the diagram) and loss of hope of conversion lol my renegade is back on the trails.

Posted

I know this post is a tad old , but I bought an R2 because of electrical problems related to the fuse box behind the passenger seat near the ECU. I had to make my own relay/fusebox set up temporarily , but I have ordered one from rick @ silver bullet in the mean time. Heres what I have learned about the ECU harness and rear fuse box setup.

I cut the wiring , yes all of it. It was badly burnt and unrecognizable.

As far as the fuse box is concerned Basically there are 3 negative potential outputs , those are what turn on the fan , fuel pump , and main relay.

There are a couple of wires that are fused , and run to the ECU , one is on all the time , the other keyed.

The rest of the wires feed the gauges , the coil packs , and injectors , there could be some more , but the detail escapes me.

If your coil pack wiring has the proper + potential , as well as the injectors and computer. You can trick the computer in to starting and running. I bought 4 relays 50 amp from ebay , and a universal fuse box.

My renegade is running , and I do plan on repairing it properly when the harness/FB arrives , but I just thought id throw that out there , to let you know there is hope in making these engines run with the ECU. My first thought was to convert it to carb/distributor , but after a little wire tracing (very little thanks to the diagram) and loss of hope of conversion lol my renegade is back on the trails.

Take some fotos and send them to me and I'll add them to mine so they can be shared, especially if you find some new information and if you need help and I can give it, let me klnow.

One thing I did for powering up the fan and fuel pump was to replace the relays with high power FETs, NO moving contacts. I'll be looking at the main relay now that you have brought it to my attention. Died you say there is power to the ECU all the time or just to one of it's fuses. Did you download the Trooper wiring Diagram schematic in parts and pieces under manuals? Did a copy and paste of the PDF and created a drawing of the information 2486333090104282158CLzAXt_th.jpg

Kinarfi

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I had a master switch problem. I store my T2 in a warehouse so when I was in there I would always start it and let it warm just to know all was well. For no reason one day it wouldn't start. It would roll over only. No spark or injector pulse, (checked with a GM noid) but dash cycled, fan cycled, lights and accessaries worked. Thinking ECM or at least crank trigger I towed it to my shop and started to check things. Why I did it I don't know, but I cycled the main kill switch and it started! Real RELIEF!

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By Jacob E freeman
      I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then  it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
    • By Texjpr
      2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass  switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
    • By Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
      Will NOT START
      MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
      I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. 
      I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. 
      So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. 
      Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home.  After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. 
      So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. 
      Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power,  turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner.  So after that the AICV was  making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START.  I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector.  I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail.  I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore.  I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems.  But this SxS is kicking my ass.
      So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.  Thank you for reading thus far.
       
       
    • By Reynolds Rocket
      I have a 2017 Intimidator XD4 800cc 4x4.  It will run great and then it's like it goes into safe mode and only runs on 1 cylinder.  It's not fouling out the plug when it happens.  Some times when I stop and restart it, it works fine.  First I thought it was a spark issue, then a fuel issue, but I feel like it's a short in the wiring some place. 



×
×
  • Create New...