Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

We all have a tube from the valve cover to the intake manifold and I think we all have a larger tube from the valve cover to somewhere else. On mine, the larger tube went to an oil separator that was vented to atmosphere and drained to the oil pan. I changed mine because it was blowing oil out and all over the separator. After my ring job, the larger tube goes to a home made oil separator that drains to the oil pan and vents to a "rubber glove", at the moment, other wise it would go the intake tube after the filter and before the manifold. When the engine is at low RPMs, all the air is sucked out of the glove, when I'm running at speed, the glove blows up to tight, but is not vented. Here's what I think: The air is sucked out at low RPMs by the manifold draft and blown up while running because manifold draft drops when the butterfly is open and the pressure to blow the glove up must be coming from blow by.

What you think is happening

Kinarfi

2165377640104282158OhkkjA_th.jpg

Posted

We all have a tube from the valve cover to the intake manifold and I think we all have a larger tube from the valve cover to somewhere else. On mine, the larger tube went to an oil separator that was vented to atmosphere and drained to the oil pan. I changed mine because it was blowing oil out and all over the separator. After my ring job, the larger tube goes to a home made oil separator that drains to the oil pan and vents to a "rubber glove", at the moment, other wise it would go the intake tube after the filter and before the manifold. When the engine is at low RPMs, all the air is sucked out of the glove, when I'm running at speed, the glove blows up to tight, but is not vented. Here's what I think: The air is sucked out at low RPMs by the manifold draft and blown up while running because manifold draft drops when the butterfly is open and the pressure to blow the glove up must be coming from blow by.

What you think is happening

Kinarfi

2165377640104282158OhkkjA_th.jpg

Is it possible the glove is blowing up just because the air is warm?? just a guess.

Posted

We all have a tube from the valve cover to the intake manifold and I think we all have a larger tube from the valve cover to somewhere else. On mine, the larger tube went to an oil separator that was vented to atmosphere and drained to the oil pan. I changed mine because it was blowing oil out and all over the separator. After my ring job, the larger tube goes to a home made oil separator that drains to the oil pan and vents to a "rubber glove", at the moment, other wise it would go the intake tube after the filter and before the manifold. When the engine is at low RPMs, all the air is sucked out of the glove, when I'm running at speed, the glove blows up to tight, but is not vented. Here's what I think: The air is sucked out at low RPMs by the manifold draft and blown up while running because manifold draft drops when the butterfly is open and the pressure to blow the glove up must be coming from blow by.

What you think is happening

Kinarfi

2165377640104282158OhkkjA_th.jpg

I think your right, Then again I may be wrong. The crankcase does get some blowby no mater what because there is no thing as a perfect sealing piston ring. Thats why there is a tube going to the intake, to get rid of this by sending it back to the combustion chamber. Im not quite sure what the difference is between this tube and the one that is susposed to send oil mist to the canister which recondenses it and drains it back to the oil pan. I'm thinking that the loscation of the larger hose is like in refactory system (but different) in that it picks up from a position in the head cover that has more mist and the other tube comes out the top. I have eliminated the tube comming out of the top because of the supercharger.but still have the canister. As far as the glove goes, I suspect that the pulsation of the air pressure in the intake manifold is pumping it up. I'm thinking that the kinetic energy of the air coming into the intake manifold is ptting it at a slightly higher pressure then the pressure in the crankcase but then when the engine is sucking the pressure is slightly less then in the crankcase. Now I'm going to guess at this one. A PVC valve that we don't seem to have unless it is in the canister allows the air to get out of the crankcase but not go back in. If there is a PVC valve in the canister, it could allow the glove to blow up but not deflate except to slowly when at higher engine speeds. I'm now 100% sure of what I'm saying here so maybe someone else can chime in.

Lenny

Posted

I think that would have to be some serious Blow-by, You still have you PCV valve in place right? Either way, My Trooper has a filter inside that cap on the CCP canister, I dont have any oil residue outside of the canister.

Posted

I think that would have to be some serious Blow-by, You still have you PCV valve in place right? Either way, My Trooper has a filter inside that cap on the CCP canister, I dont have any oil residue outside of the canister.

welcome to the forum Leadfoot.

Posted

Went for a 62 mile ride yesterday and popped the glove, it was one of those gloves that the doctor wears for exams. maybe I ought to put a pressure gauge on and see how pressure it build, or does anyone know the bursting pressure of a glove :o:lol: say what????

Posted

Thanks Rick, been watching the forum for a while now, so i feel like i know everyone! lol!

I agree with you Kinarfi, Its a lot of pressure, but you also cant judge the pressure of the glove at burst, oil breaks down latex. Hell if i were you I'd put a breather cap on it and ride.

BTW: Totally off-subject but how are you guys going about re-locating the headlights on these things, I love my Trooper but the darn headlights seem so out-of-place!

Posted

Thanks Rick, been watching the forum for a while now, so i feel like i know everyone! lol!

I agree with you Kinarfi, Its a lot of pressure, but you also cant judge the pressure of the glove at burst, oil breaks down latex. Hell if i were you I'd put a breather cap on it and ride.

BTW: Totally off-subject but how are you guys going about re-locating the headlights on these things, I love my Trooper but the darn headlights seem so out-of-place!

As Leadfoot suggests, that's just what I'm gonna do, plug the end of the hose back into the air intake after the filter and before the intake butterfly and go riding and forget about it.

Welcome to the forum Leadfoot, but no hijacking allowed, :D you need to start your own post about headlight relocating. It EZ.

Kinarfi

Posted

Welcome Leadfoot. Always good to have new people to help with getting things solved on the forum. Where are you from? Hopefully you can get to the next jamboree.

Lenny

Posted

Welcome Leadfoot. Take a look at my gallery and you will see what I did. Unbolt them and mount them in the same location under the fender. Original location looks like the dune buggies of the 70's.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

Kinarfi, are you using a Latex glove? Maybe your Trooper is allergic to Latex and causing swelling, LOL !

Pull the Oil cap off the top of the valve cover and see if it releases some of the swelling. May take a couple of minutes. Also try starting cold with no crankcase pressure with the Oil cap off and see if the glove swells. Just install a slobber tube to nearly the ground and just let it vent to the atmosphere.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

Thanks guys, great to feel welcomed! I'm from Georgia, near Atlanta, Dont quite know how this Joyner made it all the way out here but hey, I'm not complaining!!! But anyway, Ill check your galleries and see how you guys did it! Thanks!

-Chris

Posted

Leadfoot , were do you ride at do you ever go to brimstone or windrock we have to get together and go riding.I would like to do a east coast Jamboree. How many people on this fourm that lives on the east coast would like to do a ride like the west coast boys do.

Posted

Leadfoot , were do you ride at do you ever go to brimstone or windrock we have to get together and go riding.I would like to do a east coast Jamboree. How many people on this fourm that lives on the east coast would like to do a ride like the west coast boys do.

No, Used to ride Teleco before they closed it up, not many places to ride anymore around here. Wish there was! I'll second the east coast jamboree!!

Posted

Leadfoot , were do you ride at do you ever go to brimstone or windrock we have to get together and go riding.I would like to do a east coast Jamboree. How many people on this fourm that lives on the east coast would like to do a ride like the west coast boys do.

Count me in if my Joyner is running when you guys plan the ride. I live in Rockwood, Tn. not far from Windrock. I don't know where brimstone is, is it in Tn?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By se3388
      Hopefully someone else will buy a UT10X and join in.
       
      Steve.............
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By Charles Hamilton
      **Disclaimer: Yes, I know Polaris and Kawasaki are SOOO much more better, reliable, retain their value, not made in China, etc. I need a UTV and don't have the money or financing for one of those units, so let's keep this discussion productive please**
      Hi all, learning about my new T-Boss 760 from TSC, and am trying to find the actual dip stick to check the oil, funnily enough.
      Does anyone have a picture of it or something? It's crazy that I can't find it...yet here I am.
      Also - any advice on oil? Manual says 15W/40 "SJ" but I'm told the SJ spec doesn't exist anymore.
      Gentleman at TSC said to use any 15W/40, but I'm very nervous about causing an issue this early on by using the wrong oil.
      Anyone have advice?
      Thanks!
       
    • By Paul Angstadt
      Hi everybody. I just bought a 2012 Hisun with the 700cc engine. Was wondering where i could find a service manual for this thing?
      Its going to need some parts that are missing, like the air intake hoses and other things. Also the dash display is out. the only light that works is neutral light. Not even sure on the model. from pics I've seen, it looks like an HS700. Kind of grey with the black stripes on the hood. Just hoping i can find parts for it.
      Thank you for any advice you can give me. By the way, it does run and goes forward and reverse.
      Paul
    • By Jerrys500
      I wouldn't say that after a year of owning this thing, that I would go out and buy one again. Certainly one that was used and abused, but at the time I needed something and this was in my price range. I could tell that it would need some work. I however didn't know the half of it. This was my second UTV. The first one was and older American Sportsworks Carbide 7150 that was a total piece of junk. I got it for next to nothing and was a project piece. I got it running and rode it for a bit but it was way not what i needed and it finally burned up and was set aside. Anyways, so I bought this one from a farmer. I'm not positive of the exact model but it originally came from Tractor Supply. per the stickers on the bed and its a camo color. Upon first inspection when I got it home, it was a mess.
      1. Had a water leak - The leak was in two hoses one of which was a short one that came from the rear of the engine and I literally ended up cutting it off. Well getting another one on there took hours and was simply horrible.
      2. Had an oil leak - This is my concern today as I was never able to figure out for sure what it was going to take to fix it. More on that in a min once you have a full account of where i've been in this thing.
      3. Had a bad clutch - Replacing the entirety of the clutch system wasn't all that bad except its a tight space to work in to do this repair. was a pain to figure out the angle that I needed to get the cover off and then back on again but figured it out the second day and got it done.
      4. Had bad Universal Joints - this was a nightmare because they originally put 18mm ujoints in the thing which I was not aware of so when my parts came in of course I had the 20mm that they started putting in, from what I can understand, was the very next year. Finding the 18mm ones was all but impossible so I bit the bullet and did the full conversion to the 20's.
      5. Had bad Tie Rods.  - Tie rods were not a problem. However while in there I noticed that it was a little low on brake fluid. The fluid that was in there looked fresh. Sure enough there was a line leak there so i had to get new lines for it. I almost just ordered the master cylinder at that time but had seen the  fluid coming from the other end and thought yeah it should  be ok. That was a stupid decision. Yet another parts order to get one. Once delivered it was not a prob just replace, fill, bleed and good to go.
      6. This was about the time the panic set in. I needed to check the other oils and the final gear oil was mostly empty and what was in there I'm still not was sure was gear lube. Luckily after clearing it out and refilling it, there didn't seem to be any issues with the final gear. So far that is.
      7. So at this point I figured that it was ready for my first trek with it to the  gold claim and off  we went. This was a 14 day venture in the middle of nowhere over 300 miles from home. I had tested it over the course of 5 days and except for the oil leak it looked like all was good with the exception of blowing a little smoke. Day two in the sticks it decided to just die on us out of the blue. I checked the spark and it wasn't there anymore. The plug wire had come apart. I made one that worked until I could get a replacement. It still wouldn't start but I was getting spark. ended having to remove the fuel pump and clean it up. I then had to pull the fuel injector. I don't know why it ran when it did. It took over 4 hours of running brake parts cleaner and air through it before I could get any fuel to go through it. Luckily after that most of a day delay, I'm glad to report that it did its job rather nicely for the remainder of the trip.
      8. After that ordeal and in the neighborhood of about $800 or so for parts and oils and all it looked a little brighter. I did still have not only the oil leak to fix, it started blowing more and more smoke. I keep the oil up but it uses quite a bit. if used in a whole day I'm adding at least a half quart. Its made three trips now in this described state. The only new things are that it has gotten very difficult to shift which is likely that pair of shifting gears, the blowing of smoke that is almost for sure a sign that I have to rebuild the top end including the top end kit and do the valves at the same time. Now the oil leak. 
      So this leak I don't quite know the part names but it is coming out from around the shaft coming from the front of the engine. My diagram does not seem to show that there is a bearing in there but I would think there has to be. So I can't order a part that doesn't seem to exist. Now the part I still can't figure out is am I going to have to pull the motor and split the case to do this repair or with the four bolts in the housing will this pop out into my hand and be a simple replacement? Of course after removing that shaft which of its own was no fun because of the requirement of almost having to remove the entire differential to get it out.
      Sorry for the lengthy story but I think that it shows some of the pain of these things. I grew up riding dirt bikes, motorcycles, and three and four wheelers and I can say that none of them were ever as difficult to fix stuff as this Massimo is. Heck have done motorcycles from the frame up with modifications and it wasn't this difficult. Let me  qualify that statement, I'm speaking of Kawasaki, Honda, and Suzuki motorcycles only once did ever work on a Harley and thinking about it that was horrific as well.
       
      Thanks for any words of wisdom besides junk this crap for a 17k to 30k upgrade. Only cause I'm 5'9 and my wife of 40 plus years is 6'1 and told me that i can't have the Kawasaki Teryx 1000 that I drool over. Getting old has really curbed her desire to deal with my toys over these four decades....
      Thanks for listening I look forward to and replies... Jerry
       
×
×
  • Create New...