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By Alien10
This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes.
A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did.
Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams.
up.
Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Brent C
Hi all, I own two Axis UTV's. Last year I purchased a 2022 Axis 500. I had a mechanical issue with the shifting forks after only 50 miles. I contacted Axis/Hisun warranty dept. That were very helpful and willing to send out a representative to see if it was a warranty issue that fell under coverage. Since I live in an area that does not have authorized repair facility within 300 miles. A really nice guy drove all the way from West Virginia which was 4 hours away. He determined that the console would not stay seated in position and while driving it, the console would jump forward and knock it into the wrong gear causing the shift forks to become bent. It was then picked up a few weeks latter to be repaired in Richmond, Virginia. It should arrive home soon.
Now to my question. After the 2022 Axis 500 was taken for repairs, I bought the 2024 550 Axis. I bought the first one to take my son who is disabled from an extremely rare disorder that requires daily care to get out of the house. There are two things that give him joy, music and going for rides. That is why I purchased the first one, However because it had bucket seats and the engine was between the two and was too loud even though I deaden the sound and put a quiet muffler on it.
I then decided to purchase the Axis 550 for the great updated features and the bench seat, I will be buying the complete enclosure ad on's offered by Hisun. Since it does not come with a heater (Axis 750 does) I was wondering if anyone knows what heater is part of the 750 edition. There was a photo that showed a Firestorm brand, however I can not find what variation it is. If anyone knows what a Inferno heater would be correct for the Axis 550. I would like to install it this Winter to take Justin riding on the farm. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Brent
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By JDawg
Was using the machine all day to haul wood...no issues until the end...
When I try to start it, the dash lights come on but starter does not...seems like no power to the starter.
It is in park, but when I put the brake on to start, it registers N.
Won't start in neutral either...
Tried rocking it, did not help...
Help...
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By vachi
hi everyone i have this 2021 Hisun forge 250 that won't start. no spark no fuel. when i turn the key on i dont hear the relays click or fuel pump come on. it does have power but the relay doesnt ground the pump or the ignition coil. dont know if there are any safety switches on this model or not. it does crank and all the accessories work. i hot wired the pump and it does work. i found a wiring diagram but it's very hard to figure out and was hoping someone has seen this before. all fuses are good. thanks in advance.
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