Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys, have any of you had a issue with the front wheel bearings? It sounds like my passenger front one is bad. It pops and creaks when driving. When I have it up on jacks it creaks about twice per revolution of the wheel when I spin It by hand. It only has about 310 miles on it.

Posted

Hi guys, have any of you had a issue with the front wheel bearings? It sounds like my passenger front one is bad. It pops and creaks when driving. When I have it up on jacks it creaks about twice per revolution of the wheel when I spin It by hand. It only has about 310 miles on it.

While you have it up on jacks, try wiggling it side to side, if more than just a little, 1/16", get it replaced, it seems they always pop and creak when they're going bad. I've replaced the rear bearings twice, the first ones looked like they had been hot on under water, ugly, and the second set failed in under 200 miles, I had ordered the roller bearings, but they were slow getting to Silverbullet, so I had to use ball bearings while waiting for the roller bearings.

read this post, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2304-rear-wheel-bearing-gone-bad/page__view__findpost__p__11258

Kinarfi

Posted

Thanks, I do have a bit of movement so I'll go ahead and replace. I was just surprised they failed so quickly (probably shouldn't be surprised). With all the popping it was making on the trail I was worried it was a cv joint.

Posted

Thanks, I do have a bit of movement so I'll go ahead and replace. I was just surprised they failed so quickly (probably shouldn't be surprised). With all the popping it was making on the trail I was worried it was a cv joint.

call silverbullet for your bearing, they're an odd ball bearing and he's the only source for the roller bearing that I know of.

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/turbo800/silverbulletbanner.jpg

Posted

Thanks for the info, I'll give him a call.

Another source at least for the rear bearing, not sure about the front, is Casey at JMC Motors 480-545-1693. I know they have the rear bearings at $50 or so. They are the tapered roller bearings which don't need the grease seal. If Silver Bullet doesn't have them this would be a good second source if you need to get it quickly.

Posted

I just checked the manual and it calls for the same bearing on all 4 corners, I thought so but I did check,but beware, the seals are not the same on both sides of the bearing, the manual says it has an outer diameter of 65 mm on both seals, but that is wrong, it shows different values, 48 & 45mm, for the inner diameters and all are 8mm thick, I think I stated the correct sizes in my bad rear wheel bearing post.

Kinarfi

Posted

The seals are just added protection. The bearing has a seal. If you can't get the seal, just be careful & reuse. BMW does not use the additional seal but of course the quality of the bearings BMW uses maybe a bit higher.

rocmoc n AZ

Posted

Thanks guys, I'll be careful when I pull the seals just in case I can't find another set. I'm glad to know that all bearings are same size, sounds like I'll probably be replacing the rest shortly.

Posted

Thanks guys, I'll be careful when I pull the seals just in case I can't find another set. I'm glad to know that all bearings are same size, sounds like I'll probably be replacing the rest shortly.

I know the bearing is a odd size but I'll bet that the seals are a standard size that can be gotten at your local power transmission supplier.

Lenny

Posted

I know the bearing is a odd size but I'll bet that the seals are a standard size that can be gotten at your local power transmission supplier.

Lenny

Yes you can get them but I had to wait almost a week for them to be shipped to the local seal supplier and the shipping cost me more than the seals did. Here is a link that will help with getting the seals and the install, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2258-technical-articles-in-this-forum/

rocmoc n AZ

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Croppy38
      I own a 2017 Challenger 750 and had the key way snap at the flywheel. It was removed and cleaned up and then the  flywheel was put back on with a new keyway. It snapped a second time so the flywheel and keyway both were replaced. They both seem to fit nice and tight. Put it all back together and it snapped again. I have no idea why it is doing this. 
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By Nikonianut
      I just purchased a 2024 Bad Boy Bandit 750 but the owners manual is somewhat confusing , does anyone know what kind of oil I should use ? Manual say something about wet brake oil which I am totally unfamiliar with ! Any help will be greatly appreciated !
       
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
×
×
  • Create New...