Quantcast
Jump to content


Front wheel bearings


Drgnrdr

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, have any of you had a issue with the front wheel bearings? It sounds like my passenger front one is bad. It pops and creaks when driving. When I have it up on jacks it creaks about twice per revolution of the wheel when I spin It by hand. It only has about 310 miles on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys, have any of you had a issue with the front wheel bearings? It sounds like my passenger front one is bad. It pops and creaks when driving. When I have it up on jacks it creaks about twice per revolution of the wheel when I spin It by hand. It only has about 310 miles on it.

While you have it up on jacks, try wiggling it side to side, if more than just a little, 1/16", get it replaced, it seems they always pop and creak when they're going bad. I've replaced the rear bearings twice, the first ones looked like they had been hot on under water, ugly, and the second set failed in under 200 miles, I had ordered the roller bearings, but they were slow getting to Silverbullet, so I had to use ball bearings while waiting for the roller bearings.

read this post, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2304-rear-wheel-bearing-gone-bad/page__view__findpost__p__11258

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I do have a bit of movement so I'll go ahead and replace. I was just surprised they failed so quickly (probably shouldn't be surprised). With all the popping it was making on the trail I was worried it was a cv joint.

call silverbullet for your bearing, they're an odd ball bearing and he's the only source for the roller bearing that I know of.

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv160/turbo800/silverbulletbanner.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, I'll give him a call.

Another source at least for the rear bearing, not sure about the front, is Casey at JMC Motors 480-545-1693. I know they have the rear bearings at $50 or so. They are the tapered roller bearings which don't need the grease seal. If Silver Bullet doesn't have them this would be a good second source if you need to get it quickly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just checked the manual and it calls for the same bearing on all 4 corners, I thought so but I did check,but beware, the seals are not the same on both sides of the bearing, the manual says it has an outer diameter of 65 mm on both seals, but that is wrong, it shows different values, 48 & 45mm, for the inner diameters and all are 8mm thick, I think I stated the correct sizes in my bad rear wheel bearing post.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I'll be careful when I pull the seals just in case I can't find another set. I'm glad to know that all bearings are same size, sounds like I'll probably be replacing the rest shortly.

I know the bearing is a odd size but I'll bet that the seals are a standard size that can be gotten at your local power transmission supplier.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know the bearing is a odd size but I'll bet that the seals are a standard size that can be gotten at your local power transmission supplier.

Lenny

Yes you can get them but I had to wait almost a week for them to be shipped to the local seal supplier and the shipping cost me more than the seals did. Here is a link that will help with getting the seals and the install, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2258-technical-articles-in-this-forum/

rocmoc n AZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By felo72
      Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
      I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
      When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
       


    • By Browner010
      Recently I had an overheating issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun UT550) and to check to make sure it was fixed I took it out for a ride around the block. After a couple cycles on the LED coolant meter, I took it for a couple mile ride and on my way back I heard a loud metallic snap then a grinding noise. It was still able to move under its own power but very slowly. I was about 2 blocks from the truck so 'I limped it home and up onto the trailer. I know I need to tear it apart and look for what broke, but anyone have a guess as to where to start? I'm seriously getting tired of this damn machine! 750 miles on it and already replaced the belt, wet clutch, primary clutch, clutch roller weights among a few other things. Seriously, this friggin machine has spent more time on the lift than on the road. I thought I bought this new because it was from the owner of a tractor supply, but he registered it under the stores name making me the 2nd owner voiding any and all warranties.
      Any Ideas what to look for would be appreciated.
      Thanks
    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
×
×
  • Create New...