wanted. 2015 or abouts engine/ air duct, cover console
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By Graffy
Im new to the UTV world but not new to the fabrication world. Me and my friend have been focusing on designing and building a rallye-type setup with a custom chassis and a single seater. With suspension design at a good point, we want to start work on the chassis; however, there is one big hiccup in the way, and that is the powertrain. We've been going back and forth on this for quite some time now and realized that we cant find any great options. We want the engine to be behind the driver and mounted between the seat and the rear axle with a transaxle setup. We aren't going to need any power for the front wheels, as this is an RWD application (Toyota MR2 style setup). It also needs quite a small engine; I would love for it to be 100+ hp and possibly be turbocharged down the line, but power isn't a huge deal right now. Right now its a battle between a UTV engine X trans or a bike engine with a diff.
Although crotch rocket engines are super cool, they aren't built for high-torque applications, and a differential setup for one can range up to $6k, which is pretty ridiculous for our initial budget. (We are not going chain-driven as we have bad experience in that area.).
That's what leads us to UTV x Snowmobile drivetrains. I was initially surprised to find out how much power they have and realized it could be a great option with how they are designed for high torque applications. It is a difficult situation to find a good setup.
The transaxle needs to be either a manual or a sequential setup. And although there are some great engine options, with my limited knowledge in the UTV world, I have yet to find a transaxle that fits or works well with those engines.
So my questions are this: Does anyone know of a good combo or might be able to lead me down a direction? Could it be damaging to an AWD transmission if nothing is connected to the front output shaft and only the rear diff?
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Jim Kessell
2005 American Landmaster
EH65 Subaru Robins
spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb. What’s causing this ??
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