Quantcast
Jump to content


Trooper Turbo Feedback

2scoops

By 2scoops
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

2scoops Proficient

2scoops

Posted
Posted

Questions from any Trooper Turbo Owners:

Where did you purchase your turbo?

Have you had any issues?

Do you have an intercooler?

At what RPM do you feel it spool up?

How does it run up hills? Do you need to down shift still?

Do you feel there would be an advantage of a supercharger over a turbo?

Thanks for the feedback.

Randy Explorer

Randy

Posted
Posted

2scoops,

My turbo was installed 2 years ago by Scott at Unleashed Motorsports in Prescott (he is now in Mesa, I think?). I have about 1500 miles on the turbo and 2500 miles overall on the Trooper.

I have had to 'PB Blaster' the waste gate linkage which got a little sticky and allowed overboost, but other than that, no issues. I dialed up the pressure on the fuel regulator, but I think it still leans out when you are in full boost for a long period of time. I just back out of it and then get back on and it is fine. No intercooler.

I can hear and feel the turbo at around 2k and boost guage shows activity above about 2.5k. It really does deliver good midrange pull when I call on it. If I get in trouble at low speeds (often!) it responds quickly to a downshift, but can be too much if not careful.

Hill climbing is where it really works..... If I take the right line I can take Oldsmobile (if you are familiar with Glamis) in 4th gear 5k+ rpm (10# of boost) almost all the way up. I have downshifted on hills and been able to maintain boost, but if you miss the shift....its over. It is also very easy to get into the rpm limiter which kills momentum bigtime! I don't use paddles anymore, I found they did not add much if anything and were a pain to switch back and forth. I use Maxxis Bighorn's for everything and they do a good job.

From a theoritical point of view, the supercharger would be more effective at lower rpm, but I like the idea of not pushing the HP through the drive train unless I call on it. I don't do a lot of rock crawling so I cannot really speak to pros an cons.

Overall, installing the turbo is the best single thing I have done to improve the drivability of my T-2. My wife even likes it!

2scoops Proficient

2scoops

Posted
  • Author
Posted

2scoops,

My turbo was installed 2 years ago by Scott at Unleashed Motorsports in Prescott (he is now in Mesa, I think?). I have about 1500 miles on the turbo and 2500 miles overall on the Trooper.

I have had to 'PB Blaster' the waste gate linkage which got a little sticky and allowed overboost, but other than that, no issues. I dialed up the pressure on the fuel regulator, but I think it still leans out when you are in full boost for a long period of time. I just back out of it and then get back on and it is fine. No intercooler.

I can hear and feel the turbo at around 2k and boost guage shows activity above about 2.5k. It really does deliver good midrange pull when I call on it. If I get in trouble at low speeds (often!) it responds quickly to a downshift, but can be too much if not careful.

Hill climbing is where it really works..... If I take the right line I can take Oldsmobile (if you are familiar with Glamis) in 4th gear 5k+ rpm (10# of boost) almost all the way up. I have downshifted on hills and been able to maintain boost, but if you miss the shift....its over. It is also very easy to get into the rpm limiter which kills momentum bigtime! I don't use paddles anymore, I found they did not add much if anything and were a pain to switch back and forth. I use Maxxis Bighorn's for everything and they do a good job.

From a theoritical point of view, the supercharger would be more effective at lower rpm, but I like the idea of not pushing the HP through the drive train unless I call on it. I don't do a lot of rock crawling so I cannot really speak to pros an cons.

Overall, installing the turbo is the best single thing I have done to improve the drivability of my T-2. My wife even likes it!

Thanks Randy. The Unleashed is the turbo I am looking at if I do not supercharge--best price.

Do you know if Unleashed put a different fuel pump than stock for the install?

Are you holding your own against the competition (RZR's/Rhinos/Prowlers/etc)? Any stories?

I haven't seen alot of sand, just some in Moab, but it wasn't very long or steep where I was at. The lighter machines seem to scoot along in sand much easier and I am hoping a supercharger or turbo will even things out.

I can tell you even with rock crawling the Troopers 1st gear is low enough to climb everything I have tried. I have Silverbullets fuel controller and that made a huge difference in low end pick up & power. The only time rock crawling becomes a chore is when you get bound up and have to work the clutch, but that isn't a power thing, it is a stick shift thing. The only thing I have noticed my buddy's RZR's do better is accelerate up hills due to their CVT & lighter weight.

It would be nice to have the instant low RPM throttle response of a supercharger, but I am debating if I even need it below 2000-2500 RPM.

Randy Explorer

Randy

Posted
Posted

Paul,

I have the stock fuel pump. The fuel controller should help with the turbo requirements I would think.

I ride regularly with RZR's, RZR 4's, Ranger's, Rhino's etc. I am the 'old fart' of the group (the others are my son's and their friends) and I got the turbo so I could keep up. The t-2 w/turbo will out accelerate any of them if you can handle the gear box. I have never been out climbed. The main limiting factor is from my neck up, I am a conservative driver and I am sure someone else could get more performance out of my rig, but I like it and it works for me! (I am more often at the pulling end of the tow strap than the other way around).

I find that on anything but the most difficult or fastest rides, the turbo just smoothes out the edges to give that extra margin. I used to get into scary situations before the turbo ie - down into a bowl or needing to crest a hill too fast to maintain momentum. Now I have confidence that when push comes to shove, I can power out of it.

And I still get 25 mpg! (I do have to run 100 octane unleaded, $8 gal, ouch!)

Randy Explorer

Randy

Posted
Posted

Where are you getting your gas, may I suggest 100LL aviation gas for about $6.50, probably what your getting anyway.

http://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html

kinarfi

I thought the same thing until I found out that AvGas is LOW lead, not UNleaded. I understand that it is not good for anything but emergency use (except of course for airplanes that are designed for it). I go to a little auto shop on the westside near 51st ave and Bethany Home Rd. I use so little of it (compared to the hundreds of dollars of Diesel I use in the MH!) that I just don't worry about the cost. I try to have 20 gallons on hand all the time. Hardly ever run through more than 10 gal on the average trip.

MauyThai1 Enthusiast

MauyThai1

Posted
Posted

Questions from any Trooper Turbo Owners:

Where did you purchase your turbo?

Have you had any issues?

Do you have an intercooler?

At what RPM do you feel it spool up?

How does it run up hills? Do you need to down shift still?

Do you feel there would be an advantage of a supercharger over a turbo?

Thanks for the feedback.

I purchased my Turbo from Scott also but it was installed by a Joyner Teck here in Colorado. The Turbo has never run well, I have an issue with the engine getting hot if I run the machine 45 mph or more for a few miles. i put a Boost Controller on it which helped some and then I adjusted the waste gate so it wouldn't boost more then 10 lbs. I also have a Fuel controller from Silver Bullet. I couldn't get it to work so I called the manufacture EJK. Matt at EJK told me the standard fuel controller will not work with a Turbo but he can remapp it for a Turbo which I had him do.. I have contemplated several times on removing the Turbo but after talking with Scott at Unleashed we will try to get it tuned. I think the Turbo is a good upgrade if Scott was to install it and tune it, I live out of state so I had a teck install it is supposed to know what he was doing, guess he didn't. I am not running an inter-cooler but I will.The Turbo was installed when I had 210 miles on the machine, I now have 3000 and it still isn't working right. The machine runs great and the power is impressive in 2nd and 3rd gears when Im needing it but when I hit 4th and 5th gears to run down the road it will slowly heat up and lose power. Robert.

2scoops Proficient

2scoops

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I purchased my Turbo from Scott also but it was installed by a Joyner Teck here in Colorado. The Turbo has never run well, I have an issue with the engine getting hot if I run the machine 45 mph or more for a few miles. i put a Boost Controller on it which helped some and then I adjusted the waste gate so it wouldn't boost more then 10 lbs. I also have a Fuel controller from Silver Bullet. I couldn't get it to work so I called the manufacture EJK. Matt at EJK told me the standard fuel controller will not work with a Turbo but he can remapp it for a Turbo which I had him do.. I have contemplated several times on removing the Turbo but after talking with Scott at Unleashed we will try to get it tuned. I think the Turbo is a good upgrade if Scott was to install it and tune it, I live out of state so I had a teck install it is supposed to know what he was doing, guess he didn't. I am not running an inter-cooler but I will.The Turbo was installed when I had 210 miles on the machine, I now have 3000 and it still isn't working right. The machine runs great and the power is impressive in 2nd and 3rd gears when Im needing it but when I hit 4th and 5th gears to run down the road it will slowly heat up and lose power. Robert.

Thanks for the reply Robert. I can't believe you have put up with the turbo acting up for almost 2800 miles. I wonder if you would have had issues even with out the turbo. I also wonder why yours is overheating. Randy lives in Arizona and doesn't have any overheating issues with his turbo.

Are you running race gas?

Keep us posted on how things turn out. I would like to know how the remapped fuel controller works. Silverbullet should have done his homework before selling it to a turbo'd owner. Let us know if you get it running correctly and what the fix was.

Thanks,

Paul

dedub Collaborator

dedub

Posted
Posted

I purchased my Turbo from Scott also but it was installed by a Joyner Teck here in Colorado. The Turbo has never run well, I have an issue with the engine getting hot if I run the machine 45 mph or more for a few miles. i put a Boost Controller on it which helped some and then I adjusted the waste gate so it wouldn't boost more then 10 lbs. I also have a Fuel controller from Silver Bullet. I couldn't get it to work so I called the manufacture EJK. Matt at EJK told me the standard fuel controller will not work with a Turbo but he can remapp it for a Turbo which I had him do.. I have contemplated several times on removing the Turbo but after talking with Scott at Unleashed we will try to get it tuned. I think the Turbo is a good upgrade if Scott was to install it and tune it, I live out of state so I had a teck install it is supposed to know what he was doing, guess he didn't. I am not running an inter-cooler but I will.The Turbo was installed when I had 210 miles on the machine, I now have 3000 and it still isn't working right. The machine runs great and the power is impressive in 2nd and 3rd gears when Im needing it but when I hit 4th and 5th gears to run down the road it will slowly heat up and lose power. Robert.

this might help richen fuel up on topend geting hot a lot of times means to lean on fuel..dedub.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 No Start - Need Help Please
      By Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
      Will NOT START
      MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
      I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. 
      I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. 
      So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. 
      Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home.  After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. 
      So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. 
      Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power,  turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner.  So after that the AICV was  making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START.  I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector.  I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail.  I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore.  I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems.  But this SxS is kicking my ass.
      So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.  Thank you for reading thus far.
       
       
    • Dennis
      bd 300 bulldog shifting issues
      By Dennis
      I have  a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013.  In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse.  I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free.  With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift.  once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile.   Any suggestion on where to go from here?
    • didgeridoo
      Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?
      By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • Kingfish
      Now that I have done the LI-Ion batt conversion, I need to do something about the suspension
      By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • Ridge Runner
      2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter, need help accessing tail gate latch screws
      By Ridge Runner
      Hi
      i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter.  The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening.  There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place.  The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them.  This is right by the tail light assemblies.  I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in.  Bottom line I’m making it worse.  
      coleman was no help.  If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole.  Any ideas?
       
      thanks
      Ridgerunner

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...