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By CYJSP2009
Dear Joyner owners
Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
Currently, we have supply below parts:
1. cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
2. Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
3. Cables,
4. Brake parts
5. Engine parts
6. Other parts.
We will provide better price, close follow up ...
We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers
Have a good weekend
Casey / Leaf Asia
2023-11-17
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By Reynolds Rocket
I have a 2017 Intimidator XD4 800cc 4x4. It will run great and then it's like it goes into safe mode and only runs on 1 cylinder. It's not fouling out the plug when it happens. Some times when I stop and restart it, it works fine. First I thought it was a spark issue, then a fuel issue, but I feel like it's a short in the wiring some place.
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By amiracle40995
I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have.
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By lmarkie
I swapped out the Subaru motor for a Predator 670cc. If I remove the heat shield around the muffler, The stock muffler sits in there just fine with 1" to spare.
Only problem is the exhaust exit is toward the back seat instead of out the back.
Do you all think that the stock exhaust would be okay (just as effective) if cut a hole and welded a pipe on the reversed (opposite) end? Of course, plug the old exit end. Other option I thought of was to roll a tube 180° with a 7" center line radius and finish extention of 12" or so.
Any thoughts?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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