Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone its been awhile, everybody enjoying their troopers? Did anybody have to replace any alternators yet? mine is dead !!! does anybody know if there is an aftermarket one out there? instead of going to joyner? I checked NAPA they have nothing, checker also has nothing. Thanks for your help!!!

Stevozz

Posted

An alternator is an alternator. I beleive that they require a 12v keyed line going to them to energize the coils and they then put out 12 volts to the battery. Any alternator that will bolt up should work fine as long as it puts out equivalant or more amperage. Maybe Kinarfi can tell us what amperage the stock alternator is. More amperage won't hurt with in reason of course, just don't use less.

Lenny

Posted

Hi guys and thank you for your replies. The stock alternator puts out 75 amps, everything that NAPA found that may fit are only putting out 45 to 50 amps so that will not work. I did take it to get bench checked and it is dead not producing any amps. They cannot even replace any parts, because they cannot locate the parts. And a new one from jmc cost $275.00.

I did read something on here the other night where someone thought it was their alternator but instead it was the shut off switch. Boy do I wish it was that. I just hate to buy another China alternator and it does the same thing 800 miles from now. I was just wondering if anybody had this problem and found another alternator to take the place of the factory one. Thanks for your help guys.

Stevozz

Posted

I've torn a few alternators apart and they are very simple, the copper winding, the rotor and some electronics to control the voltage. I bet that if the stator and the rotor and not burned up, it wouldn't be that hard to adapt the controller of a chevy or similar to make work again. If you want, I'll give it a shot for you.

Kinarfi

Posted

I have a used alt from my 08 T4. Thought alt bearings were bad. Turns out it was the belt. Replaced with new one I found here in Phx from guy who bought Joyner stock when they went out of business. If interested, we could meet somewhere, you could try it out and I would refund purchase price if not satisfied. PM offline to discuss.

Posted

Before I would spend the big bucks on another Joyner one, I would adapt a more standard one to fit. Can't be that hard. Just make an adapter that bolts into the regular mounting point on the engine then extends out a bit where it changes to fit the new alternator. You have to make it so that when it is bolted to the engine that it can't rotate. I would think about a tab sticking up and sdown from the mount points and use some long set screws so after installation to the engine, the set screws can tighten against the block to stabilize it.The strip with the slot for adjusting belt tension can also be easily modified. You may have to get a slightly longer belt. Then the problem is solved for once and for all.

Lenny

Posted

Hi everyone, thanks again for your help. the part that is bad is the regulator/ stator its the part that sends the amps out. And they cannot find the part to replace it. They are still looking for it. As for lights all I have is the factory spot lights on top and 2 sets of 520 PIAA lights, I removed the headlights. The biggest draw is from the factory spot lights, Yes I think I will have to see how much room I have to make another one fit. Whats the lowest amp alt you think that I can use? Because when you get up to 75+ amps they are alot bigger. Thanks for all your help and info guys. I will let you know how everything turns out.

Thanks again

Stevozz

Posted

Before I would spend the big bucks on another Joyner one, I would adapt a more standard one to fit. Can't be that hard. Just make an adapter that bolts into the regular mounting point on the engine then extends out a bit where it changes to fit the new alternator. You have to make it so that when it is bolted to the engine that it can't rotate. I would think about a tab sticking up and sdown from the mount points and use some long set screws so after installation to the engine, the set screws can tighten against the block to stabilize it.The strip with the slot for adjusting belt tension can also be easily modified. You may have to get a slightly longer belt. Then the problem is solved for once and for all.

Lenny

Sounds like another aftermarket item for you to whip up for us. You could even pickout a std alt for us to use.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

what do you guys think the lowest amp alt I could use that will handle everything? because its true my trooper doesnt have a/c, heater, power windows, locks ect. again stock is 75 amps. What do these really need to run the system? Again for lights I have the stock spotlights on the top light bar, and 2 sets of 520 PIAA lights.

Thanks again for your help!

Stevozz

Posted

Thanks for getting back to me. I took my alt to a friend of mine Thursday afternoon, He is going to get 2 of them tomorrow morning to see if they will work, both of them are for dodge vehicles, and both are pushing out 55 amps also with the same plug. if they do not work we are going to try Suzuki which from what I hear will bolt right up and also pushing out 55 amps, but the plug is different. So if I have to go that route all I have to do is splice the wires going into the alt. I will let you guys know what happens. Again thank you guys for everything!!!

Stevozz

Posted

Hi guys, We found one alt that looks like it will mount up with ez, one problem stock alts have only 2 wires going to it. This one is for a Suzuki sidekick and it has 3 wires. I am really no good at wiring and worried about what wire goes where. I do not want to cause other problems to the system. I tried 4 other alt with 2 wires but they were to big and alittle long pulley wise it didnt line up. They do not give you much room to work with and the way the bottom mount is. And the left motor mount is real close to the bottom alt mount. Mid 90s Suzuki samurai was small and looked like it would bolt right up except for the 3 wires and the pulley was for a v-belt and wouldnt change over because of shaft size. And the Sidekick was about the same size as the stock trooper alt with surp belt, all you would have to do is shim up bottom bolt for extra room for the mount, but again 3 wires! both pushed out 55 amps. Does anybody know how I would hook up a 2 wire system to a 3 wire alt??? Again thanks for all your help!!! If this doesnt work I will just have to get that $275.00 peice of #### China pride.

Thanks Stevozz

Posted

Hi Trooper Folk!

Steve sent his dead alternator to me and I've been doing so studies of alternators and found that the voltage regulator in them has become an elaborate complicated work of art. Used to be a relay that open when the battery voltage went about 14.2 and closed when the voltage went below 14.1 (+ or -), now it looks at every little sine wave coming out of the windings and reacts to that, plus the temperature of the battery and the amount of current being drawn and the speed of the rotor and who know what else. I read that MAN tends to complicate even the most simple thing, I happen to agree with that.

Any way, as i opened up the alternator, I found the three diodes that feed the regulator were fried, shorted, thus shorting out the stator, which may have over loaded the regulator until it fried also. Now I'm going to, 1 build an analog version so when the voltage is under 14.2, it sends more to the rotor and when the voltage is more than 14.2, it sends less. plus I ordered some sample alternator voltage regulator chips from ONsemi, the samples are free, but the shipping and handling is $11.00.

I took photos, doctored some of them and put them in the Trooper web shot

2325819880104282158OXBXcH_th.jpg

After I looked at some of the photos, I decided I better go clean up my bench :wacko::(

Kinarfi

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By staind
      Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM. 
      I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc. 
      I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking. 
      This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
      I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
      This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever. 
      thanks Dan D. aka staind
    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)

      My vehicle is (at least not yet) not a UTV, however, it is an ATV, A 2001 Kawasaki Prairie 400.
       

       
      BTW, That's Brandy, my former PTS/TBI service dog on the bike. RIP old girl. She's internet famous. Perhaps you've seen her before...
       

       
      The reason I'm here is that Arthritis is starting to set into my wounds and my mobility is getting worse. I will be selling the quad bike soon, and going with a SXS, and have selected a Can Am model as the replacement, so I figured I had better get on board a forum somewhere. Just put in for my Guard retirement, and will be very soon looking to get into a Commander 6x6.

      Wouldn't mind having the Limited with the Hvac system, but am really not sure it's worth the extra 10 grand or not. Plus it's 500 pounds heavier, and I prefer the doors off in nice weather. It's so much easier when working in the yard, and so much more fun when on the trail.

      Anyway, I'm here now, so it will help me research more and make up my mind. Plus once I have it, I'll be able to share stories about it and of course, continue to learn more, as it will be my 1st sxs. Still have time before I get my retirement. Takes a good 90 days at least according to the guy I talked to... Typical government efficiency... lol.
       
    • By Ken rung
      Does Anyone by chance have a owners manual and a shop manual for a 2007 800cc trooper. I just bought one and need to figure out where and how to engage and disengage the 4 wheel drive. Is it electronic or is there a hidden lever. PLEASE HELP
×
×
  • Create New...