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By Prepper
I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines. There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil. My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage). While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure. Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine. Could they both be right ???
Any thoughts ?
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By ToughLuck
I have a 2021 Massimo MXU 1000. Last winter the front drive shaft sheared off inside the motor and it was cheaper to buy a new motor than to take it apart in order to remove the front drive shaft that was broken inside the case…
Now it is running rich, seems to maybe be geared too high, does not accelerate well once you hit about 28mph. I’ve replaced the O2 sensor. MAF is next (I accidentally ordered the wrong one, but when I removed the old one you can clearly smell fuel).
I’m not a motorhead but I can turn a wrench. Any ideas how to get this motor optimized? The motor has about 300 miles on it. I broke it in as recommended in the manual.
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By CapnWalleye
Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
- drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
- replaced the fuel injector.
- disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
- set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
- replaced the battery.
- replaced the O2 sensor.
Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
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By CapnWalleye
Just picked up a Cub Cadet 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
- drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
- replaced the fuel injector.
- disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
- set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
- replaced the battery.
- replaced the O2 sensor.
Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
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By Homeowner A
Coleman UT 400 has a strong sulfur/emissions smell from exhaust all the time. Kind of like it’s running rich and a catalytic converter is trying to make it run cleaner so it smells bad. Also misfires when warm. Idles fine. Full throttle fine. In between it cuts out. Do these have catalytic converters? Almost acts like it might be clogged if so.
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