Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, tore my rear diff up, now can't find one!! Would like to get one quick,getting ready to go back to Idaho. Anyone have any ideas? Tried JMC, Silverbullet,nolimits, help!!!!

Posted

If you can talk Bedrock, member on this site, into taking his Renegade diff over to Lenny for verification & inspection, I would trade Bedrock a Trooper diff for it and you could buy the traded Trooper diff from him. The trade diff does not have the upgrade kit.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

Would do any of the mentioned,, can't find any on ebay,, would love to get yours Roc, then pay Lenny to do upgrade, would be set,, but? Don't know how to make happen,,,

Posted

I won't let mine go without replacing it with a Renegade diff. If I never get the Renegade diff then my spare diffs are for when I have a breakdown. The diffs are one of the weak links but seem to last with the upgrade kit. Lenny is running a lot more power than the rest of us and his diffs have lasted, knock on wood for ya Lenny! Myself am still running my orginal diffs without problems but lots of off-road experence with spinning the wheels on different surfaces which is usually the cause of damage. Hang in there, one will show up or maybe Bedrock will contact ya or me! I made the case for the trade that the Trooper diff is easier to sale than the Renegade. Thus far two diff failures on here since my offer to trade.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Guest Lenny
Posted

I'm fairly confident in the diff with the upgrade. It's not a given that it won't fail with the upgrade but as Rocmoc said, the upgrade seems to be solving the issues with the diff if it's installed correctly. I'm putting a lot of power to mine and no problems yet. However, I don't do hole shots or deliberately stress it unnecessarily. I'm getting old and conservative and not a kid anymore. Keep in mind that the most stress is on the diff when your in low gear and trying to get over a challenging rock craw situation. Your reving the engine and working the clutch to get lots of power to the wheels. I've done this with mine and it didn't brake. You have to ease the clutch out. I feel one of the main problems with the diffs is that the pinion gear is allowed to get into a location where it doesn't correctly line up with the ring gear. This is what proper shimming can correct. The ring gear has its teeth lined up radially around its center. This means that the part of the teeth that are closest to the center of the gear are smaller with less space in between them then the teeth at the outer portion of the gear. The teeth on the pinion gear are also tapered to match up with the ring gears tapered teeth. If there is mis-alignment between the gears, the larger teeth on the outside portion of one gear, say the pinion gear for example, can be trying to mesh with a part of the ring gear where the teeth are smaller. The larger tooth wedges itself in between two small and more closely spaced teeth stressing it way too much. Over time with fatigue, teeth start braking off. This has nothing to do with the power they are transferring. Another main problem is that the bolts holding the ring gear come loose and eventually shear off. The final main problem is that the set screw, holding the pin going thru the spider gears, doesn't do it's job and the pin slides out tearing up the main differential case. The upgrade fixes all of these issues. That said, I only have a few diff upgrade kits left and don't plan on making up more. When there gone, there gone. You can't just put together a batch of shims and metric grade 12 bolts to come up with a fix. I have to machine the bolts and a number of the shims from standard available ltems in order to make them fit the application. I'm not trying to use this forum to try and sell kits. As many of you already know, I have never attempted to market the Items I sell for the Joyners on this forum, You will have to find them yourself on Ebay. That's not what this forum is about I feel.

Lenny

Posted

I was able to drive it about 20 miles to get back to mh. But could hear noise in rear of trooper,so I took it real easy. I'm not even a pretend mechanic, so my young bud tore into it,he's the one that overhauled motor for me. Anyway, several of the bolts inside were broken off,or loose. Part of tooth gone on one gear. Some small metal pieces mixed in oil ,little piece of housing was worn off. It had the upgrade almost 2 yrs ago, but can't say as to if it was put in correctly? All the work that that mechanic had done on trooper was great,but I think that was his 1st diff upgrade.I was climbing steep loose hill,with all 4 locked in,when I 1st heard noise.It was more of hill than I normally try,but it was the way to get home.

Question? when the co. says they are upgraded differentials, what have they done?

Should I still use Lenny's upgrade ?

Guest Lenny
Posted

My upgrade uses socket cap screws (bolts) to hold the ring gear on then there is a hex locking nut on the back side to help secure them from coming loose. Put inb properly, they will not come loose. What type of bolts did your diff have, where they a hex head or mine? Was your spider gears pin still in ok?

Lenny

Guest Lenny
Posted

Currently I am out of upgrade kits. Holding 3 for Rocmoc and 2 for Quig.

Lenny

Posted

I was able to drive it about 20 miles to get back to mh. But could hear noise in rear of trooper,so I took it real easy. I'm not even a pretend mechanic, so my young bud tore into it,he's the one that overhauled motor for me. Anyway, several of the bolts inside were broken off,or loose. Part of tooth gone on one gear. Some small metal pieces mixed in oil ,little piece of housing was worn off. It had the upgrade almost 2 yrs ago, but can't say as to if it was put in correctly? All the work that that mechanic had done on trooper was great,but I think that was his 1st diff upgrade.I was climbing steep loose hill,with all 4 locked in,when I 1st heard noise.It was more of hill than I normally try,but it was the way to get home.

Question? when the co. says they are upgraded differentials, what have they done?

Should I still use Lenny's upgrade ?

If housing can still be used why not replace the broken gear along with Lennys upgrade? much cheaper then whole diff.

Guest Lenny
Posted

You would have to get the specs on the splines. Splines should be a standard metric size. If your not interested in going 65mph, the 9 to 33 ratio would be real nice for rock crawling but top speed would be maybe 40mph. The ratio would be 3.66:1 where as stock is 2.07:1. But then you could run 33" tires for extra clearance. Actually I still like the one I referred to above because it's a 2 speed differential you could still have a 2.1:1 high ratio and then go to a 4.5:1 low ratio which would be even better for rock crawling. 36" tires anybody? One concern would be if they could be available for the front also which needs to be reversed. The one shown by Alibaba says for front and rear. For the Trooper, you would need 2 diffs. Klung could probably supply the other make too but it appears that you could buy it direct also. Wonder what shipping and customs would be.

Lenny

Posted

You would have to get the specs on the splines. Splines should be a standard metric size. If your not interested in going 65mph, the 9 to 33 ratio would be real nice for rock crawling but top speed would be maybe 40mph. The ratio would be 3.66:1 where as stock is 2.07:1. But then you could run 33" tires for extra clearance. Actually I still like the one I referred to above because it's a 2 speed differential you could still have a 2.1:1 high ratio and then go to a 4.5:1 low ratio which would be even better for rock crawling. 36" tires anybody? One concern would be if they could be available for the front also which needs to be reversed. The one shown by Alibaba says for front and rear. For the Trooper, you would need 2 diffs. Klung could probably supply the other make too but it appears that you could buy it direct also. Wonder what shipping and customs would be.

Lenny

He told me 550.00 for front and 650.00 for rear that included shipping

Posted

Would do any of the mentioned,, can't find any on ebay,, would love to get yours Roc, then pay Lenny to do upgrade, would be set,, but? Don't know how to make happen,,,

Still on Ebay. Item 150693498940

Posted

You would have to get the specs on the splines. Splines should be a standard metric size. If your not interested in going 65mph, the 9 to 33 ratio would be real nice for rock crawling but top speed would be maybe 40mph. The ratio would be 3.66:1 where as stock is 2.07:1. But then you could run 33" tires for extra clearance. Actually I still like the one I referred to above because it's a 2 speed differential you could still have a 2.1:1 high ratio and then go to a 4.5:1 low ratio which would be even better for rock crawling. 36" tires anybody? One concern would be if they could be available for the front also which needs to be reversed. The one shown by Alibaba says for front and rear. For the Trooper, you would need 2 diffs. Klung could probably supply the other make too but it appears that you could buy it direct also. Wonder what shipping and customs would be.

Lenny

Now. the NEW limited slip fuction differential for joyner troopers and renegade are available !!!!

We can supply the ORIGINAL trooper front and rear differential which has been upgraded and no factory flaws.

100% installed joyner models guranatee. Dealer wanted. paypal accpeted.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By Homeowner A
      Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load.  Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out.  It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature.  I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter.  No check engine light.  I don't have a code reader for this.  Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking.  I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good.  Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77.  What should I try or consider next?  
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By CRV
      Howdy new member here . My hobby's Rabbit dogs , gamefowl . I'm retired from my real job but I stay busy with the hounds and gamefowl . So to help around the farm I ran across an old 2007 CC Big Country 4x2 to haul feed , water , sprayer and my sorry a$$ .It is in pretty good shape , 781 hrs. good plastic , tires, ect. . But as anything outside and 18 years old it needs seats ! The thing I have found wrong mechically the Diff. Lock Acturtor is broken where it mounts to the bracket ( partly why Im here ) . Hoping someone here can help  ! Just my wish list but Id like to find a roll cage and a composit/plastic top for it Im thinking I'll need a donor to salvage these things from ( again partly why Im here ) .Is there another brand that uses this same actuator? If anyone reads this and has or knows of any of threse parts PLEASE HOLLER !! 
      Again Howdy brothers & sisters

×
×
  • Create New...