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By Alien10
I added lights to the Coleman Outfitter 550 last fall. I bought lights on line from Nilight, a 300 W 12" light bar mounted forward and 2 square 4" floods for the rear. Those are mounted on the roof corners facing rear and downward just beyond the tailgate. Nilights seem to be of high quality, as I've had them on my garden tractor for 5 years and still flood the way ahead with great light.
Both the front and rear lights provide amazing illumination making the OEM headlamps look like parking lights. Made a connector for the front bar that plugs into existing headlamp switch so it is just part of that circuit controlled by the headlamp switch. Rear work lamps were wired in using a rocker switch installed in the dash. Backed up to the garden with the work lights and was able to harvest some tomatoes well past sunset.
What have you used if anything for auxiliary lighting on your UTV?
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By hetovi
Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a CFmoto ATV and I'm looking to add some accessories to enhance its performance and usability.
I'm curious about what you all consider essential add-ons for a CFmoto.
Specifically, I'm interested in accessories that improve comfort, storage, and overall ride experience.
Are there any brands or products that you’ve found to work particularly well with CFmoto models?
Any tips on where to get the best deals would also be appreciated. Looking forward to your suggestions and advice!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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By Buck
My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts. I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch. He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing. Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
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