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By Bobby Courtney
I have a 2021 Coleman 400utv with 60 miles on it. I bought as project. It’s idled ruff and fouled plugs since it was new. I have removed and cleaned throttle body new injector new idle air valve new oxygen sensor. Installed ngk iridium plug. Starts and run good for about 5 or 6 miles and fouls plug. It runs rich all the time. I’ve done reset on ecu. I’m about to think it’s time to try a new ecu. Anyone please help.
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By mac66
Apparently, these are Hisun or at least they use Hisun engines. I can't find much info on them online yet. Ran across a used one with just 100 miles on it as a very reasonable price. Just curious.
Okay, more info...they are owned by Textron Corp who also owns Bell Helicopter, Cessna & Beechcraft aircraft, Ez-Go & Cushman and Arctic Cat and a bunch of other companies.
So are thy cheap Chinese crap machines or are they good to go?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By sxr951
corrosion had its oring neck area jammed in.. and besides that had corrosion in the starter just shorted when ran direct jumper cable to the starter post power to it
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By Travis
Many people have issues with the kawasaki FJ400 engine fouling out spark plugs, after working on a few FJ engines and 600 series Mule's with this issue, i can say the fix for this issue is using a slightly hotter spark plug... the factory recommends a BPR6ES NGK plug.... the Number in NGK plugs represents its heat range and somewhat odd, the lower the number the hotter the plug, at least as far as NGK is concerned. If you have a Mule fouling spark plugs try installing a NGK BPR4ES spark plug.
FROM NGK
A hotter heat range spark plug has an insulator design with a longer heat flow path to the metal shell of the plug. As a result, more heat stays in the ceramic firing end and less is dissipated to the engine. A colder heat range spark plug has an insulator design with a shorter heat flow path to the metal shell of the plug. As a result, less heat stays in the ceramic firing end and more is dissipated to the engine. For a spark plug to function properly, it must have a tip temperature high enough to burn off carbon deposits (self-cleaning) and avoid fouling, while remaining low enough to avoid overheating the ceramic firing end and pre-ignition.
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