Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

TROOPER T2 BRAKE PADS:

Previously I found a post on another website that called for EBC brake pads, P/N FA482TT. I was unable to find these through an american vender, so I set out to find another set that we could use. More searching may turn up something different and more affordable, but for now this is what I have found.

MFG: EBC

P/N: FA473

Application: 08-09 Can-Am Spyder RS 990 REAR, 10-12 Spyder RS-S REAR

IMPORTANT NOTES: Given that the spyder is a single rear wheel application, there is only one set of pads. Must purchase one set per wheel to be replaced. Also holes that fit over guide pins must be drilled out slightly larger.

I went to this trouble and expense hoping that the better quality pads would provide better stopping power. Sadly the brake system on the T2 still proves to be anemic in its ability to stop the buggy. If improved stopping power is what you are looking for, a solution is still not readily available. I know others (ie Lenny) have doubled up on calipers, etc to remedy this issue, but I was hoping better pads would be a happy compromise. These pads do provide better feel at the pedal, excessive pedal pressure is still need to bring it to a stop.

Posted

Has anyone tried a brake pressure multiplier (bpm) I seen one made by ECI engineered components inc. looks like it is what the trooper needs I think the price was 160 or so

Posted

I called ECI this morning they have a new pressure multiplier coming out in the next month or two it will be more versatile the engineer was at a trade show he will be in Monday he will explain if it will work for the trooper application. Does anyone know what the size the old first 50 brake calipers were

Posted

There has got to be a multiple pot caliper that can be used off a bike, with minimum changes needed. Gawd, I wish I was in Canada just for this - rummaging through bike scrap yards would likely turn up something within the hour.

Posted

Kinarfi - I found sets for $37ea. These were the FA473V ("V" denotes semi sintered pad, P/N without "V" is your straight organic)

I called ECI this morning they have a new pressure multiplier coming out in the next month or two it will be more versatile the engineer was at a trade show he will be in Monday he will explain if it will work for the trooper application. Does anyone know what the size the old first 50 brake calipers were

Keep us posted on this!!!!!

There has got to be a multiple pot caliper that can be used off a bike, with minimum changes needed. Gawd, I wish I was in Canada just for this - rummaging through bike scrap yards would likely turn up something within the hour.

I think Lenny may have touched on this in one of his posts, and I am speculating at this point, but I don't think small multi-pot calipers is our best solution. Please someone correct me if I'm off base. From what I have been able to surmise so far we have automotive master cylinders pushing ATV calipers. Automotive masters do not need to generate as much pressure because they are designed to work on larger bore caliper pistons. The larger the bore, the larger surface area for the hydraulic pressure to work on. Force = (pressure)(area). So unless we find multi-pot calipers with a total piston surface area larger than the single unit we have now, I fear we won't gain the stopping power we need/want. Plus, I don't know what is involved with installing that pressure multiplier, but I'm hoping it will be easier than finding and modding all four caliper mounts.

Another idea I would propose would be to upgrade our master cylinders to high performance motorcycle units. Thats just an idea I have right now, haven't done my research yet to figure out if those are running at a higher pressure, but I am using the theory that they are designed to work on calipers with smaller pistons. Although, the force required to stop a motorcycle is presumably less than that required to stop these Troopers. More research is needed..........

Posted

I can tell you that they were small. Casey at JMC would know the exact size or I can measure my friends. His stopping power is quite a bit less than mine and he has complained about it since first getting it. I haven't driven it so I can't say but I don't have any problems with mine. Looking at them sitting together you can definitely see a pretty big difference. We both have T4's so they are heavier than the T2's. If you want measurements I can get them or just call Casey tomorrow. You can upgrade by getting later model rotors along with brackets and that will at least give you some better braking.

Guest Lenny
Posted

The piston area in the calipers is the total of all calipers on that wheel. Two single piston calipers is just the same as a single piston of twice the area. In my case I went for doubling up on the stock calipers and my braking improved dramatically. If one calipers stops with a power of 10 then two stop with a power of 20 provided the pressure is kept the same. Doubling the pad size with the same pressure per square inch will double the stopping power. Keeping the pad size the same while doubling the pressure will double the stopping pressure. This isn't totally true but within the working design range of the pad material it is close. Bigger calipers, multiple calipers, or more pressure will all improve braking power somewhat proportionally. Of course, if a rotor is too small and gets too hot trying to do its job, then that is another issue. I haven't had that problem show up.

Lenny

Posted

The piston area in the calipers is the total of all calipers on that wheel. Two single piston calipers is just the same as a single piston of twice the area. In my case I went for doubling up on the stock calipers and my braking improved dramatically. If one calipers stops with a power of 10 then two stop with a power of 20 provided the pressure is kept the same. Doubling the pad size with the same pressure per square inch will double the stopping power. Keeping the pad size the same while doubling the pressure will double the stopping pressure. This isn't totally true but within the working design range of the pad material it is close. Bigger calipers, multiple calipers, or more pressure will all improve braking power somewhat proportionally. Of course, if a rotor is too small and gets too hot trying to do its job, then that is another issue. I haven't had that problem show up.

Lenny

In your case, you not only doubled the surface area for the hydraulic pressure to work on, but you also doubled the frictional surface area with twice as much brake pad PER WHEEL!!!! That had to be an amazing difference!

Guest Lenny
Posted

Before, I was always aware of the brakes being weak. Now I never give the brakes a thought, they just work.

Lenny

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I called ECI this morning they have a new pressure multiplier coming out in the next month or two it will be more versatile the engineer was at a trade show he will be in Monday he will explain if it will work for the trooper application. Does anyone know what the size the old first 50 brake calipers were

Any updates on this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Venom
      Hi All,
      I picked up an old beat up 2010 American Sportworks Bull Dog 300 BD300.  I would like to restore her...  Does anyone know a good source for parts other than the OEM?  I find $130 for brake pads is kind of unreasonable... I also need a steering rack and other things... I took apart the steering rack and it needs a new bearing and oil seal... Of course the OEM only sells the complete rack for over $200..  I found the correct bearing for $6.00. I am having trouble finding the correct oil seal.. 
      Anyone that has info on one of these machines, please chime in...  I am used to the ease of finding info on Polaris, Honda, Can Am, Kawasaki, etc.....,  Info and parts on these seems to be scarce..  Some of the parts on it look like Golf Cart parts as well as some look like Go Kart parts..
       

    • By felo72
      Hello all. I purchased a brand new Massimo Buck 250 EFI in June for our farm and I've had the parking brake fail on me twice. I have approximately 250 miles on the vehicle. The first time was less than a month after receiving the UTV. We all of a sudden lost brake pressure and it would not start. I tracked the issue back to the parking brake. Upon removing the chain cover, I noticed the brake pad was missing and the caliper piston was touching the rotor. I found a set of brake pads online and replaced them myself. It's worked for several months and just happened again. Seems like a design flaw. I'm reaching out to see if there's an upgrade option available, or if I should replace the entire caliper with the brake pads? Thanks in advance for any advise.
      I submitted a warranty claim, so I'll keep this updated with what Massimo replies.
      When I replaced the brake pads the first time, back in July, my Son made a video on YouTube to show the unique caliper design. Here's a link if you wanted to check it out:
       


    • By Michigan sport.
      I'm sure many of you are aware of Michigan's emergency brake requirement.  I'm wondering if anyone has a good solution. 
      Beyond paying the few fab places $$$$.. I'm curious is there another rear caliper with e brake style that would interchange with slight mods to  the Maverick sport rear mounting bracket?
    • By Jon V
      Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
    • By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


×
×
  • Create New...