Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay, y'all, I went for the stupid looking bolt first, and sure enough, it backs out into the drive housing and goes no further. I guess this is a stupid question, but do I really have to remove the cover, belt, clutch, AND THE HOUSING? Pardon my frustration, but this should have been an hour job, and it makes me want to strangle someone in engineering.

I'll thank anyone for a timely confirmation of the utterly obvious. I know this engine went in all kinds of machines, but they could have left me a hole with a plug in it behind it, or perhaps used a shorter bolt in this application. I'll hang around, but soon, I suppose I'll be tearing down half the machine to get at one poorly placed bolt.

Has anyone done this? I can't find one mention of it online.

Posted

If you have the Kawasaki Shop manual (Kawasaki 3010 3x4 trans Utility Vehicle Service Manual) you will soon find out that YES! you gotta pull a whole lot of stuff to get to anything near the middle of the vehicle, engine, transmission, Etc. Have you ever worked on any other Japanese made vehicle, starting with the Mitsuibitsi Zero they are all the same type of construction, you start with whatever is in the middle and start adding stuff all around that piece until you run out of pieces, then you are finished!

I found out that it takes a couple of metric sockets and little bitty hands to work on a Mule. I don't follow all the directions, but often find that I can save some time by taking shortcuts...but when I get frustrated I just go watch "The Bridge on the River K????'" and apply some British clever thoughts to the Mule and keep on 'a keepin' on! It is a good thing that buying Dynamite, caps and fuses is strictly controled or I may have a Mule scattered over 40 acres.

More times that not it pays t go to Kawasaki.com and search out a parts diagram for the section I'm working on, the Japanese terminology is weird, but after a few months I have about been able to find the right area to look, Drive shaft, propeller shaft Frame, Control, torque convertor, alternator cover, WEIRD!!!!!

Posted

My, yes. I've already come to the conclusion. Typing "puller description " into google got me the specs, now just to buy the appropriately sized bolt and make a suitable arbor to go in before it. Kawasaki has never been at the top of my list, despite the fact that they managed to get into powered equipment in a way that Honda is still far behind. I was the John Deere service guy for some time, and got to play with lots of them, from the little singles on walk behind stuff, to the big fuelies in garden tractors.

Have been, and always will be a fan of Honda motorcycles from the seventies. I feel that by the eighties, they were all washed up, everyone, with Suzuki topping the turd list, followed by Yamaha, then Kawasaki. Unfortunately, I think the EPA had the most to do with it, of course the public didn't have to buy that junk, but the alternative was American made, and nobody with any sense would have anything to do with Hardly Ableson.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Jim Kessell
      2005 American Landmaster
      EH65 Subaru Robins
      spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb.  What’s causing this ??
    • By SouthernGypsy
      We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
      Trying to figure out where it belongs...
       




    • By Josh5696
      So I've got a 2022 Axis 500 UTV with only 50 miles on the odometer. It seems to have a strange grinding/squeeling noise coming from the clutch when decelerating or going down hill at lower speeds. Did some research, and found out this is apparently a fairly common thing. Alot of sources suggest the one way bearing is responsible. I'm hearing about quite a few horror stories about these bearings going bad on practically new machines, and when they replace the bearing it goes bad again shortly after.
      Has anyone come up with a solid fix for this? I've read it may be possible to run the UTV without the bearing at all, is that true? Are the $20 replacement bearings from eBay and Amazon complete garbage, and is there a better one way bearing out there that's built stronger? Is there something else causing this bearing to wear out faster, or is the stock bearing complete junk?
      Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance!
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By Kingfish
      I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1.  I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386.  With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge.  When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be.  I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage.  My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it?  I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.
×
×
  • Create New...