Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Where is the computer located on the T4, my intention is to do a test this weekend, and most likely will need to swap the computer where we are testing at. Also recommended tools to replace the computer.

Second question oxygen sensors I also want to test disconnecting them, What I though I heard is there are 2 of them on the exaust manifold.

Pictures would be very helpful, since the manual doesn't show a good location.

Guest Lenny
Posted

The location of the computer is behind the drivers seat or on the T4 it should be behind the seat behind the drivers seat. You will need a 10mm socket with short extension with rachet driver and a 10mm box or open end wrench. To remove the plug from the computer, pull the grab tab or end of the plug, you will see wha tI mean, out the end about 3/4" and this will release the plug. Yes there are 2 oxygen sensors, one in the exhaust manifold before the cat converter and the other is after. You can just unplug them. Keep in mind that the computer uses the oxygen sensor information to determine if the air fuel ratio is correct for the moment by moment operation of the engine based on various conditions. The computer looks at various sensors like temperature, tps, manifold pressure, barometric pressure, etc. and controls spark timing and injector pulse width based on values in a table. The computer then looks at the oxygen sensor to see if the air fuel mixture matches the table and if not, it ajdust accordingly. The oxygen sensor sends a voltage signal to the computer telling it what the ratio is so the computer is looking for a value in x volts. Can't remember which way it is but if it's looking for say 3 volts and it gets 0 volts or 5 volts (maybe considered a default value) then the computer may attempt to adjust accordingly and cause a running problem. Not sure if the computer will know if there is no signal and not consider the sensor ratio and do nothing. In this case it should run ok otherwise it could be a problem. Someone else maybe has tried it and can respond. Good luck.

Lenny

Posted

I have disconnected my o2 sensors in the past first it will run very rich, very hard to start when cold. Then as time passes 1 or 2 months it will start to show other signs of odd running, stumbeling when you shift and possibly surging between 2000 and 3000 RPM. I hooked the o2 sensor before the cat back up and left the one after disconnected. The sensor before the cat is the main one, it tells the ECM what amount of fuel to give the engine and also where the timming should be. The signal it sends for timming is critical that is where the surge will come from. The one after the cat is for emmisions( gov. regs) you don't need it and it won't affect your ECM or the way it runs. All this is what I found out on my own T2 yours might act differiently so it is up to you what you do. I spent a lot of money trying to correct the problems that arose from my dissconecting the o2 sensors instead of just hooking them back up. I was just to hard headed for my own good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Hunterman22
      2021 Hisun Axis 500 UTV (From Lowes)
      Will NOT START
      MY apologies if this is to much info just wanted to give yal the most information possible for help.
      I'm a so called diyer. An Electrician by trade 21yrs. I got my S×S from my last job. The contractor purchased this S×S for this specific job brand new, from Lowes. They used it for hauling materials, tools, & a little bit of anything you can think of on an Industrial type job site. 
      I remember getting on the SxS one time & pushed the gas petal all the way to the floor & SxS had very little power. 
      So anyway ,when the job finished up back mid July this year (7/2024) , I asked the contractor what they was going to do with it. I was told to take it. Otherwise it would go to the contractors yard (storage yard) & most likely rust away. 
      Took it home washed it , it had a heavy coat of dust on it & in it dust was every where. My helper & I had to push it on the trailer to get it home.  After washing it throughly I let it sit & dry out for a good day and half, maybe 2 days. Before trying to start it. NO START. Will turn over & try to start but thats it. 
      So here's what I've purchased & installed. New Air Filter, new spark plug, new air idle control valve (AICV), new throttle position sensor, new throttle body, new oxygen sensor, new digital dash speedometer/fuel gauge/clock. 
      Also drained the old oil & gas & replaced with new oil & 93oct. gas. I should probably mention that I've changed the AICV twice. The 1st time I changed the AICV I was able to get the SxS started & let idle for at least 10-15min. Drove out of the garage, with very little power,  turned it around & barely got it back in the garage.That was the one & only time I've been able to start the SxS. I've also cleaned the Throttle Body and & intake with TB cleaner.  So after that the AICV was  making weird noise so I pulled it out & tried cleaning it, pretty sure I messed it up. So I purchased a Throttle Body that came with new AICV & TPS. Still NO START.  I've checked the fuel pump & the fuel injector.  I took the injector off still hooked up to wiring & turned the key over, the injector sprayed a lot of gas out kinda the size of a volleyball. I've also checked the clearance gap on the intake & exhaust valve. But today 11/2/2024 I'm going recheck spark plug gap & the valve gaps. And alot of other checking. Would the driver side seat belt have anything to do with it not starting?? I know the driver side seat belt has to be in gauged for full throttle "going fast". Thing is the drv. side seat belt will latch but feels like might be messed up inside of it. Tired opening it up but to no avail.  I've never had a S×S or 4wheeler so I was really excited when I got the S×S,not so much anymore.  I work on & fix my own vehicles usually no problems.  But this SxS is kicking my ass.
      So if possible & someone could help me with some ideas or tell me what Im doing wrong or did wrong, I would greatly appreciate it.  Thank you for reading thus far.
       
       
    • By lmarkie
      I swapped out the Subaru motor for a Predator 670cc. If I remove the heat shield around the muffler, The stock muffler sits in there just fine with 1" to spare.
      Only problem is the exhaust exit is toward the back seat instead of out the back.
      Do you all think that the stock exhaust would be okay (just as effective) if cut a hole and welded a pipe on the reversed (opposite) end? Of course, plug the old exit end. Other option I thought of was to roll a tube 180° with a 7" center line radius and finish extention of 12" or so.
      Any thoughts?
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By Ridge Runner
      Hi
      i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter.  The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening.  There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place.  The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them.  This is right by the tail light assemblies.  I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in.  Bottom line I’m making it worse.  
      coleman was no help.  If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole.  Any ideas?
       
      thanks
      Ridgerunner
    • By Kingfish
      I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1.  I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386.  With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge.  When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be.  I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage.  My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it?  I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.
×
×
  • Create New...