Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

2006 SeaDoo 200 Speedster Tower Edition with twin 215 HP 4-Tec 4-stroke supercharged engines with closed antifreeze cooling. (Total of 430 horsepower.)This boat is capable of 60+ MPH. The boat and engines have 55 hours of running time. Also included is a Roadrunner heavy duty trailer with 6-lug 15" wheels. The tires are in excellent condition, bearings have been repacked with new seals and all lights work. The boat and trailer are in excellent condition. The boat has a $4500.00 stereo system. If you are located out of state I can help with delivery arrangements.

[email protected]; Price-$15,000

post-1616-0-41094400-1342068018_thumb.jpg

post-1616-0-85423900-1342068033_thumb.jpg

post-1616-0-29282900-1342068045_thumb.jpg

post-1616-0-60041400-1342068054_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By russnropes
      For the life of me I cannot find the directions on how to change the display to the standard for the USA - MPH. Not sure why Tractor Supply didn't do it before I bought it but it is what it is. Does anyone have the instructions to do this. I have the 2023 T Boss 550 just to be clear.
    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By Hutch
      Okay everyone, need some help here. I got my 2014 Bennche Bighorn 700 from my father inlaw. He has had it since new and as far as I know never had any problems with it until recently. It began with it being hard to start and having to give it some throttle for it to start up. Then it wouldn't stay running once it did start. If you go to start it, it will fire right off and only run for a split second and then die. If you give it some throttle it will start and stay running as long as your foot is on the pedal. While it's running its pretty rough and backfires. Here is a list of everything I've done so far. Initially I checked compression and it was low. I changed the cylinder, piston and rings. Took the head apart cleaned and laped the valves. Checked timing a few times. Adjusted the valves. New spark plug. Checked the air filter, it was fine. New battery. Changed the fuel pump because of a broken fitting. Changed the fuel filter, lines and fuel injector. Dumped the old fuel and put new in. Changed the air idle control, TPS, MAP sensor, Voltage Regulator, ECU and harness. I was getting codes 31, 107, 113 and 122 on the display. Once I changed the ECU no more codes have been displayed but still have the same issues. All fuses look good and as far as I can tell Grounds are good unless there are some I can't find. I'm at a loss here. Not really sure where to go. Compression was better after everything I did but I don't remember the numbers. I'll have to check it again if someone thinks that could be the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
    • By William P
      After a short while of engine running the temp light comes on and the water in the radiator water is boiling., water level is ok pryer to starting engine. This is consistent. Coleman 400 bout 3yrs old
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
×
×
  • Create New...