ecm fuse

[nocturnalsixer]

Hello,

My trooper ecm fuse keep blowing constantly i can drive it for a day and nothing happen then next day the trooper blow ecm fuse 4 times in 15 ft of driving it.

I'm wondering if anyone know what the wires for fuse to ecm goes to where and if it happened to them as well?

I have my secondary oxygen sensor unplugged as well but that didn't affect the trooper in past though.

[Guest Lenny]

Sounds like you have a short. My wiring is completrely different so I can't tell you what wires go to what terminal numbers on the computer but I'll bet Kinarfi can. Don't worry about the oxygen sensor, not the problem.

Lenny

[nocturnalsixer]

Sounds like you have a short. My wiring is completrely different so I can't tell you what wires go to what terminal numbers on the computer but I'll bet Kinarfi can. Don't worry about the oxygen sensor, not the problem.

Lenny

Yeah if I remember correctly, u went with megasquirt system, I'm curious how hard was it to set the system up for the chery engine?

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[Kinarfi]

best way to find a short like that is to take a light like the ones on the light bar or the element out of a head light that is 50 watts or so, maybe even 2 in parallel and put leads on it so you can plug it in where the fuse goes, when it shorts out, the lights get bright and you start moving wires around until the lights go dim or out and you know your in the right area.

Start by looking a the wires that go or went to the O2 sensor and see how they ran them, mine shorted out right at the plug to the radiator and all it took to cure the problem was to move it and tie it down in a better place.

good luck

[Guest Lenny]

The Megasquirt is fairly complex if your a first timer in working with this type of thing as I was. You first have to completely understand all the ins and outs of how a computer controls an engine. All the sensors and input devices need to be understood so you know what kind of signal they send to the computer. This isn't too bad except for the fact that the information you need to know is buried amongst all the different ways things can be done. So for me it took a lot of reading. There are others on here that could do it a lot easier then I did. Thankfully, it is all in the DIY Megasquirt site. http://www.msextra.c.../index.html#ms3 This particular index covers information for the the megasquirt system when used with their MS3x secondary board. There are a couple of other indexes that also give lots of info. I learned a ton. You can now buy the computer all assembled and ready to go. Here is the easy part, for anyone who wants to go to a megasquirt setup. I have mine completely in schematic form including pin callouts on each of the sensors. I can provide a copy of this print out and if you have Corel Draw, I can send you the file. It shows each and every wire going from the each computer output pin to its destination points individual devise plug pin. Don't ask me for a copy unless your actually going forward with it. I have to print 9 pages, trim them and then tape them all together. If you duplicate my setup, I'll even give you a copu of my tune file and save you a lot of Dyno tuning.

Lenny

[Tinman]

Lenny,

I always used dynajet powercommander for all my fuel injected bikes, and was offhandedly wondering on how I could get one for the trooper. The setup was super easy, and I'm sure you could get one for an engine with 4 injectors, instead of the 8 all my bikes had. Software is super easy, and the wiring was relatively simple. The module keeps a record of the 02 readings, allowing for adjustments.

I haven't phoned dynajet simply because its out of my budget, and there are more important things to do before I fiddle with power settings, but still... I do remember the dynajet costing me about 300...

Noc, you have to find the short. It'll only get worse.

I'm goin Lenny's route - I've ordered a bew fusebox to replace the rear seat one and will be hanging all my relays off the back wall.

NOTE TO ALL: Replace all your fuses with decent stuff, from bosch or whatever. My problems started with crappy fuses that didn't burn out when they should.

[Tinman]

Just an added thought:

I also used apexi fuel and boost controllers when I played with my turbocharged cars. They were easy to install and manage, allowing on the spot changes. In this case, a fuel controller would likely work really nice, and look cool too, what with the digital gauges.

This REALLY brings back memories...One day....

[Guest Lenny]

Working on my rear deck currently. Whole new look for the back. I'll post pics when I get it done. Then talking about gauges, I will start to think of how I want to redo the dash next. Sort of thinking of using LEDs for each engine function like when a sensor is sending the correct signal. If something stops working I would be able to see what it was by just looking at the bank of LEDs. Got to figure out if I can do it the way I want yet. May have to call on Kinarfis expertise with LEDs. This is fun stuff.

Lenny

[nocturnalsixer]

Tinman,

I feel stupid lol but what's bew relay? I agree with you and Lenny that the stock fuse box is crap

I was considering going to u-pull-it junkyard like pick a part deal and pull a fuse box but i don't know which is sealed so new would be great.

I also think we can benefit from new engine harness and controller.

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[Tinman]

A relay is an automatic switch that is used when you need high current (such as to my rad fan) but do´t want to run heavy wires all along the circuit. The fuse box behind the seat has them - they're little squares with 4 prongs. (many relays have 5) My fan relay melted. I'm buying new high quality relays and connectors that come with a little tab to hang them from, plus I bought this (but am still waiting for it to arrive):

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649

I liked the dust cover.

Getting a fusebox from the junkyard means that it won't be waterproof and you'll need to splice in your lines to the existing ones.

When I'm done, I'll have a neat row of relays and this.

It's possible your ECM wire inside your fuse box and behind your fuse has melted (like my rad fan wire did) and has soldered a few strands on to the next wire.

By the way, if you upgrade your relays (which I suggest) you can get 5 pronged ones too - just make sure the number on each prong matches from the old relay to the new

[Kinarfi]

http://www.designnot...0001/afu--l.jpg

http://www.designnot...gory_Code=cfwil

May I suggest you invest in some of these fuses also, It's what I put in mine and when I blow a few, I know at a glance which one blew. I like your fuse block, are they all on a common bus, some need to be independent. Here's the wiring diagram I posted with some color notation on the wires, if you go to the next photo, you'll see what I did to get rid of the relays, I replaced them with FETs, no moving parts, all solid state and I did that over a year ago and no problems.

Kinarfi

[plumber]

When my fuse and relay box went out on me I installed these nice set up and water proof I have pic in my gallery http://www.nxtbook.c...5/#/133/OnePage

[nocturnalsixer]

Kinarfi those are very Nice, glow fuses are very handy, I'm considering circuit breakers instead like those

Also i can't see the picture or zoom in it clearly, can u repost higher quality one please?

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46802/15-A--MINI-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-28V/

Plumber,

Which model of fusebox did u went with? I'm considering this one

Any suggestions for us guys and gals?

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46343/MINI-FUSE-AND-MICRO-RELAY-RTMR/

I can't believe the prices is cheap but i know im going to be sucked dry by all little pieces that add up.

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[plumber]

Nocturnalsixer, I used the #46344 the one you pick is buzz on both the fuse and the relay I wanted to have some that was 12v power and some that was12v ignition.I install three bus bars one is for 12v power,12v ignition and one ground http://shop.pkys.com/blueseasystems2301busbar10gangcommonbus.aspx?gclid=CNritOvMvbECFQbonAodNGEA6A. And to splice my wires together I used these http://www.waytekwire.com/wps/portal/en/products?pSearch=METRI-PACK 280&sc=19&Series=280-Series&pg=2.If you need a box wire up let me know I have all the little pieces you pay for just what I used and shipping. I'll try to put a picture in my gallery of the bus bar after I had everything hook up and check it to make sure everything was right I then spray it with Spray Liquid Tape in Black

[Kinarfi]

do a google search for CAR FUSE WITH INDICATOR LIGHT

here's a link that looks like the have decent price on a per piece basis, http://www.electronicsnmore.com/index.php/cPath/3_337_752

I bought the ten pack and had too many of one size and not enough of the other size, I'll probably ordering enough to have all my fuses be indicator type. They are the exact same size as what's in there now except for the bump for the indicator light.

[nocturnalsixer]

What's different between buss and 12 volt? I think they all get 12v?

Plumber ill like that wiring diagram posted if u don't mind.

Since i don't know what I'm doing other than that I'm going to rewire. I can rewire no problem i just need the flow chart and understanding of what is buss system

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[Tinman]

http://www.designnot...0001/afu--l.jpg

http://www.designnot...gory_Code=cfwil

May I suggest you invest in some of these fuses also, It's what I put in mine and when I blow a few, I know at a glance which one blew. I like your fuse block, are they all on a common bus, some need to be independent. Here's the wiring diagram I posted with some color notation on the wires, if you go to the next photo, you'll see what I did to get rid of the relays, I replaced them with FETs, no moving parts, all solid state and I did that over a year ago and no problems.

Kinarfi

Can you send me that Kinarfi? For some reason, I can't copy the diagram... [email protected]

AND,

I wish I had seen this before I ordered the fuse box.

[nocturnalsixer]

Yeah, kinarfi where did you find those MOSFET to replace the relays?

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[plumber]

when they say bus it has a post at the bottom that you can hook up one wire and make that whole side 12v but it can only be 12v or 12 ignition.And the other one you have to install the wires so you can make some 12v or 12v ignition

[nocturnalsixer]

i see, id need some 12v ignition for some sensors and starter i believe then correct me if I'm wrong, buss is like 12v on constant all time except during cranking?

Also plumber pm sent...

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[plumber]

Yes your right

[Kinarfi]

My definition of bus is it has a common terminal to all fuses, in our case +12v

The FETs are available from all electronic suppliers but I used IRF4905 from International Rectifier for the PFETs, there is also many others, search for MOSFET P-CH

Through hole

TO220, TO220AB,

http://www.alliedelec.com/

http://www.digikey.com

http://www.newark.com

The NFETs are just run of the mill fets like the 2N7000 and used to turn on the PFETs

What I did was use a piece of aluminum bar to mount them on and to dissipate any heat they generate, very little, and act as the common bus, I mounted the FETs so the tab was insulated from the bar. If you're really interested in using FETs, I'd be glad to help.

[plumber]

kinarfi, said My definition of bus is it has a common terminal to all fuses, in our case +12v

And he is right.Thats why I used the other one so I could have 12v power and 12v ingition

[nocturnalsixer]

My definition of bus is it has a common terminal to all fuses, in our case +12v

The FETs are available from all electronic suppliers but I used IRF4905 from International Rectifier for the PFETs, there is also many others, search for MOSFET P-CH

Through hole

TO220, TO220AB,

http://www.alliedelec.com/

http://www.digikey.com

http://www.newark.com

The NFETs are just run of the mill fets like the 2N7000 and used to turn on the PFETs

What I did was use a piece of aluminum bar to mount them on and to dissipate any heat they generate, very little, and act as the common bus, I mounted the FETs so the tab was insulated from the bar. If you're really interested in using FETs, I'd be glad to help.

Kinarfi,

I'm always eager to learn new stuff, and i have always wanted to use solid state transistors instead of relays on many of my projects because some relays get wet and stick and other relay get hot from high amp load for too long and sort of solder contact points together and become stuck activated.

Is there ways to test the mosfet like u could do with relays by feeling or listening for the click and use test light/dmm

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[Kinarfi]

Kinarfi,

I'm always eager to learn new stuff, and i have always wanted to use solid state transistors instead of relays on many of my projects because some relays get wet and stick and other relay get hot from high amp load for too long and sort of solder contact points together and become stuck activated.

Is there ways to test the mosfet like u could do with relays by feeling or listening for the click and use test light/dmm

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Well, they won't make any noise until the blow up and make a pop, but then they're dead. The best way is to measure the voltage,either measure the voltage from source to drain or from drain to ground. Another way would be to mount an LED in either of them places so you can see at a glance if it's on or off.

[nocturnalsixer]

Well, they won't make any noise until the blow up and make a pop, but then they're dead. The best way is to measure the voltage,either measure the voltage from source to drain or from drain to ground. Another way would be to mount an LED in either of them places so you can see at a glance if it's on or off.

I'm hearing impaired so i won't be able to hear the transitior pop at all, will it be possible to mount indicator led on dash that goes to the mosfet? Or maybe mount the led right above the mosfet that its hooked up to so when there's a issue we just look at those and see led

Measure voltage you mean look for voltage drop?

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[nocturnalsixer]

I rewired my fusebox with new fusebox and i made sure to match wire for wire from old to new fusebox by cutting it and doing one wire at a time but now whenever i have key on the ecm/main fuse blows instantly and whenever the master battery key is engaged the fan is running.

I'm trying to figure this out by looking at wiring diagram from manual but the manual is terrible at best.

Do anyone know where is this "body wiring connector" ?

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[Tinman]

Ouch Noc. If you've double-checked all your wiring, than the only thing I can think of is to trace the ECM wiring from the fuse box to source.

The rad fan wire is on a separate circuit/wiring loom, as far as I can remember. Is your rad fan relay ok, or is it damaged / stuck? You may have two separate issues. Mine melted when my fuse melted (damned cheap fuses) Try switching fan relays to see if the fan instantly turns on with a different relay.

Another possibility is that one of the tie wraps is so tight that it wore through several wires and there's a short. It's a long shot, but hey...

[Kinarfi]

http://news.webshots...579690123SECOgH

If you're blowing fuses, bypass the fuse with something such as a light that pull some power, I like using my spot light, or you could use your fan, but head light bulbs work well, even better if you can parallel two of them. As long as the lights are bright, you have a short, when they go out or dim, you have found or removed the short.

anyone know where is this "body wiring connector" next to the ECU

[nocturnalsixer]

http://news.webshots...579690123SECOgH

If you're blowing fuses, bypass the fuse with something such as a light that pull some power, I like using my spot light, or you could use your fan, but head light bulbs work well, even better if you can parallel two of them. As long as the lights are bright, you have a short, when they go out or dim, you have found or removed the short.

anyone know where is this "body wiring connector" next to the ECU

I tried that not lucky yet i traced through my wiring each mm of it literally by taking the sleeves off and eyeballing it looking through it i guess i got bigger problems lol

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