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By Greg Kilgore
Was at Lowe's over the weekend. The wife and I seen they have a new Axis 550. That thing is sharp. Has a complete door. Speakers in door. Bigger engine. Bench seats. New styling all the way around. Looks to be more air tight than my 2022 model. I really like the looks but $10k is out of my price range for now. Unless I could sell mine. And the resale on the Axis 500 is nothing.
Went to the local wally world today. See a 4 person Polaris General 1000 on the back of a trailer. That Polaris looked exactly like a stretched version of the Axis 550. Even down to the vents in the windshield.
Just wondering if anyone can confirm or deny the Axis 550 is a copy of the Polaris?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Alien10
A while back I was looking at an auction UTV plow and the mounting of it. Looked like it had an "H" bar with two pins that hooked into brackets on the front frame of the UTV. I have a bunch of 1/4" x2" angle iron, and some 2"x1/2" flat stock in the barn. I was thinking of welding up a bolt on implement mount that would provide 2 holes about 14" apart, that pins could be used to hook up an "H" frame for a plow or even a straight bar across with pins to hold it in place. The angle iron "A" would utilize the existing bumper mounting bolts front and bottom, and have the two channels "B" with holes for individual pins or one large bar across. Those channels would be welded to the ends of the angle iron.
Anyone ever try this for a front mount? It would be close to this one that is for sale on the net. It is supposed to fit a KFI plow mount.
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By Buck
My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts. I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch. He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing. Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.
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By SIO
Does anyone no how to to adjust these shocks. never had shocks with the fast and slow adjustments. But the main problem is it rides ruff. My bike came with the shocks set at 7 1/2" from center of nut to top of spring. The book calls for 5.5" front and 4.7" rear and they say max. Just want to make sure before moving them that far.
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