Joyner Trooper T2- Will not start!! HELP!!

[JimDarHall]

Hello all. New to the forum as well as UTV's. I have always owned ATVs in the past but just purchased a 2009 Trooper from a friend last weekend. Seems like a well built machine and looks very cool. Its a T2 camo 1100.

Anyway..took it up on the farm to "get a feel for it" before any trail riding. After a couple hours riding around I stopped for a minute and it shut off and wouldn't start back. It turns over fine but acts like it is out of fuel. After checking the gauge and dummy checking the tank with a hose it has plenty of gas. Ive known this machine since it was new(only has 513 miles on it) and it hasn't been abused at all. Is this an issue with other Joyners?

I took my fuel pump off and jumped it and it seems to be working fine. Is there a fuse or relay that could be out?

Thanks. Looking forward to conversing with you all in the future. HOPEFULLLY I can be riding and chatting soon.

[bruhaw]

Welcome to the Joyner Forum! Those who join can never leave though. Couple of things. One - are you waiting for the gauges/rpm to cycle through and go back to 0? If you try to just start without doing this it will just crank. After it has run for a while and it just dies then you could just hit the key and it should start but first time starting after sitting you have to let it cycle through. Second when you turn the key in just the on position and if the gauges do cycle through and then come back to 0, can you hear the fuel pump running at that time. If you don't then it could just be a fuse. This fuse is located right by the ECM behind the driver seat. If you have the manual it will show in there which fuses are which. There are many posts on this topic if you use the search option on the top right hand corner of this page. You will find a lot of Q&A on this. Sometimes it is something simple, other times much more difficult.

[JimDarHall]

Yes..I turn the key to on and let the gauges cycle thru and back to 0. I can't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key switch. I assume the fuse box behind the drivers seat is the one I need to focus on correct?? I pulled all those fuses and they were fine. Is it actually a fuse or one of the square relays? I swapped the square relays around and nothing changed. I' ve looked around the forum and seems there could be an issue with a bad connection going into the box( burned wire,corrosion) I'll check that when I get home.

Thanks for your help and the quick response.

[bruhaw]

Do you have the owners manual as it will show all the fuse locations? If not I can send you the manual in PDF form. It will help for other things that come up as well. But yes the fuel pump fuse is behind the driver seat. You also have a fuse box under the dash on the passenger side. The manual gives all the fuses and locations so it helps narrow it down quickly.

[DevilDog]

Sounds like bad connection take apart the plugs coming out of ECU inspect for corrosion I had same problem thats all it was.My fan and Fuel pump both come on with the key in on position. Might be able to track it down by leaving key in on position and moving wires around.

The guys on this forum are experts on the T2.

[Guest Lenny]

Check for spark and fuel and if injectors are firing. Disconnect a spark plug wire and hook it to a spare spark plug. While grounding the plug and turning over the engine see if there is spark. Make sure you are getting fuel presure, about 50 to 60 pounds, by checking the gauge at the regulator while turning over the engine. To check if the injectors are firing, remove the fuel rail, 2 bolts, and slide it, with the injectors, out of the head. Leave the electrical wires hooked up to the injectors. Be sure to blow around the injectors prior to removing to remove any dirt that could fall into the cylinders. Once it is out, place it so the injectors point away from the engine and place a towel about 5" in front of the injectors to catch the gas spray. Be careful with this as you don't want to have a fire. Have a fire extinguisher handy. Quickly crank the engine for just one or two revolutions. You should see fuel sequentially spray out of the injectors. If your getting spark and your getting fuel, it should run. You also could possibly be flooding the enigne. Tlry putting the pedal to the floor when trying to strart. When the pedal is put to the floor, it puts the ECM into flood clear mode and will not inject more furl as long as the pedal is held down.

Lenny

[JimDarHall]

Well I gotta say yall know your stuff. I pulled the fuse box off from behind my drivers seat to find several wires burned. Took me a little while to rewire the box but it started right up..fan and all.

Thanks for the help guys.

[Tinman]

It's a problem I had too Jim. Wires burned and fused inside the fusebox. I switched my fusebox to aftermarket and bought decent relays, as one of my relays also melted. I also hang my relays now instead of having them all together...

[Branden]

Hey guys I’m new to this forum but wanted to see if I can get some help with my Joyner. Mine is having a similar issue to what it sounds like you guys had on yours… But a little bit different. My joiner has an engine swap out to a 500 cc Polaris motor that is just one long gear. I’m running with the issue of it not starting as well. When I bought it the individual that sold it to me had to turn the key let off and do this again in a certain formation in order for the dune buggy to start… And now it won’t start at all. Starter sounds fine acts like it’s going to but never actually fires up. I replace the spark plug checked the fuel flow and have checked through the wires to make sure none of them are burned and I can’t see any that are. looking for what it could potentially be if he had that issue with cranking it and having to go through those steps to get it to start, and I did already go ahead and replace the ignition switch since that can be one of the main factors of this. Please help!