Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

One of the problems that kept us from taking the Jeep with us was my Jeep was leaning on the left side (lower on the driver's side) after everything was mounted; New tires, new wheels, new leaf springs, new shakles & new diffs. It also caused the Jeep to dive on the driver's side when you turned quickly towards the right. I couldn't find the cause and I was under a timeline, time was running out. I was too reactionary! While traveling and upon the return home, I told myself to slow down, think and measure. I have fixed stuff like this before. So today I took the time to measure and just lay under the Jeep looking at the frame. Inch by inch comparing left side to right side. THEN, I SAW IT! The frame supporting the front spring hanger on the rear diff on the driver's side was bent. I took a floor jack and lifted the frame at the location aprox the amount of the bend and sure enough the Jeep was nearly level. In one of my shops when I poured the floor I installed tie-downs in case I ever had a problem like this. I will tie her down, jack her up until the bend is gone. I will then box both sides so this can't happen in the future. Must have happened when the right rear axle came out on the previous owner. I never saw it as the axle was hanging out when I bought her. At any rate it is a good day when you solve a problem!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Turned out there was A LOT of small items / problems. One I have been working on is the Jeep rode and handled like cr*p. I did every easy fix there is but no improvement. Finally I took the leaf springs apart and removed 2 leafs leaving 4 in the stack. I also put a wedge in the front spring mount to improve caster. WOW what an improvement. The springs now have travel so the shocks can work. I am going to bite the bullet and purchase Fox Shocks. It seems except in the racing community, Jeep suspension technology is lagging behind. At any rate progess has been made. Second problem was / is exhaust noise. There was so much at first I could not tell the NEW Headman Headers had leaks. Finally after clearing up some of the noise I found the leaks. The surfaces of the flange is not flat & one pipe is not fully weld. I can't return them as I had to redesign one tube for clearance around the steering column. So, I have it off and doing the fixes myself. All in all I am feeling better about the new beast.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Have been working on the handling and made BIG improvements yesterday. Added a lot more caster! She is now ready for the road. Very few rattles & small stuff left. Will continue to work on those but it is time to buy the insurance so she can be driven. Will make little local trips to post office and the such then move on to bigger trips & off road. It is getting there.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

WELL, the handling turned out the be a BIG item/issue. A Jeep requires 4+ degrees of postitve caster to drive correctly. If you have less the steering will wander making it very difficult to stay on even a smooth road. A mod I had planned for the future is reversing the shackles in the front. The spring hangers are reversed where the shackle is in the rear and the pivot / solid mount end is moved to the front. This mod ends up with A LOT of postitive caster. It worked. Completed the mod and for the first time I can drive the Jeep at speed. One more of those little items/issues and I can start enjoying. Oh yeah, two more little items/issues. Turns out I have to rebuild the transfer case, $400.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

Ouch $400...i remember when i had to rebuild my transfer case in my 02 silverado i end up doing it myself for $400 in parts and lube, I'm more than sure you would be able to tackle a older trasfer case i just hope it's not iron

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Posted

Ouch $400...i remember when i had to rebuild my transfer case in my 02 silverado i end up doing it myself for $400 in parts and lube, I'm more than sure you would be able to tackle a older trasfer case i just hope it's not iron

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Good news is I still have money in the budget from the sale of my Troopers. A couple of things I don't work on is Trannys, Transfer Cases & Diffs. I will do everything else. $400 isn't that bad. I got a quote for replacing the front & rear tranny seals and the rear diff seal on a '57 Ford I own. $600 so just adding fluids & drip-pan as everthing works well, just drips.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

  • 5 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By FTG-05
      I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed.
      So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity.
      What other makes and models should I be looking at?
       
      Thanks for the help!
    • By rdborra
      I had to remove the relay for the dump bed due to it popping the fuse for main key power. I have tried to find a short but nothing seems to out of normal. I also disconnected the dump motor and switch and still pops the fuse. Also, when the machine is warmed up i get about 5 to 10 of work out of before it stalls. Once I can get it to start again I have to use the choke to keep it running. 
    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
       
      Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6. 

       
      It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks. 

       
      The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires) 
      The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride. 
       
      They will be coming off. 
       
      Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained. 
       
      Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return. 
    • By downseast
      Hi everyone
      Recently purchased a 2020 T-Boss 410 in what appears to be good condition
      First time with this machine – I also have a diesel Kawasaki Mule which so far seems a better machine
      It didn’t start and idle well particularly from cold when I got it and sudden take off ( now solved with new clutch parts ) was all or nothing !
      I have replaced the idle valve, throttle position sensor, had the injector professionally checked ( ok) and also the pressure sensor this is a fuel injection engine, also plug and lead etc!
      It still doesn’t run well and when starting I have to hold revs for a while as it wont idle but stall, thereafter its better and I have rebooted the ecu which has improved it
      When I go to start it clicks as if there is a hydraulic lock and wont return after two or three attempts it then does turn over and start bit I need to give it a bit of throttle to start – is this normal ?
      Is there adjustment for the air idle valve ?
      The engine seems rough and with vibration compared to other engines I have been used to but some say this is normal?
      I haven’t changed the Lambda sensor yet, anyone know how much difference this might make ( I have a new Bosch universal to fit )
      Any advice very much appreciated, thanks
    • By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...