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By weasel
starts up you have keep rpms up for 5 minutes till it warms up then runs fine. But if it stalls wont start unless you unplug fuel pump and hold it to the floor till it starts then plug pump back in and run it till it warms up then it is fine all day.
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By Sisco
Does any have a part number for the fuel pump sock for a 2016 challenger 700 efi. Does not show on any parts diagram but the old pump has one on it.
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By mac66
Apparently, these are Hisun or at least they use Hisun engines. I can't find much info on them online yet. Ran across a used one with just 100 miles on it as a very reasonable price. Just curious.
Okay, more info...they are owned by Textron Corp who also owns Bell Helicopter, Cessna & Beechcraft aircraft, Ez-Go & Cushman and Arctic Cat and a bunch of other companies.
So are thy cheap Chinese crap machines or are they good to go?
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By Alien10
I added lights to the Coleman Outfitter 550 last fall. I bought lights on line from Nilight, a 300 W 12" light bar mounted forward and 2 square 4" floods for the rear. Those are mounted on the roof corners facing rear and downward just beyond the tailgate. Nilights seem to be of high quality, as I've had them on my garden tractor for 5 years and still flood the way ahead with great light.
Both the front and rear lights provide amazing illumination making the OEM headlamps look like parking lights. Made a connector for the front bar that plugs into existing headlamp switch so it is just part of that circuit controlled by the headlamp switch. Rear work lamps were wired in using a rocker switch installed in the dash. Backed up to the garden with the work lights and was able to harvest some tomatoes well past sunset.
What have you used if anything for auxiliary lighting on your UTV?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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