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By Greg Kilgore
I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle.
We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home.
Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
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By SayHiToRambo
08 trooper 1100
Bit of background. First the machine would take for ever to start. So I adjusted the valve shims into spec and made sure the timing is correct. Starts perfectly now.
now it fluctuates on idle. Bogs down, Revs up, repeat. I noticed the fuel pressure drops from 60psi to 20psi while that happens. It also bogs down at the lower end of each gear, higher rpm seems to be fine. Seems to struggle under load. In neutral it revs up perfectly.
brand new fuel pump, fuel filter, gas. I noticed on the fuel pressure regulator there’s that vacuum nipple, it’s not attached to anything and I’m not sure where it would go. Possibly the problem?
Another issue is the tip off the end of the exhaust is broken off, sensor is still attached and connected. Could that cause these issues?
my next plan was to look into the pressure regulator and voltage to fuel pump while driving. Is there anything I’m missing or any ideas you guys have?
thanks!
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By rsar
So I finally got my Quad Gear cab enclosure after waiting out the backorder for three months and to say it's been a huge disappointment is a pretty big understatement. I think mostly because I could make it work, if not for one major issue. The windshield is right next to impossible to see out of. It's a real headscratcher because the side and rear windows are okay. It's not high quality 30 or 40 gauge marine vinyl but I have Quad Gear's stand-alone winshield so I knew it wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but definitely doable for the price. Incredibly, the side and rear windows of the cab eclosure are just as clear as the stand-alone windshield. And the windshield on the enclosure is like 50 percent worse than the stand-alone. It's the same company! I don't get it. If it had just been the rear windshield that was that bad I would have kept it. There are some creases and wrinkles here and there, but I've been using the stand-alone windshield for the past three months so it's good enough not to have to shell out $600 plus for the stock hard windshield. I'd put visibility at about 65- 70 percent. The wife hates it though, which is a pretty big negative. In any case, my original plans were to have an upholsterer change the crappy vinyl out for the high quality stuff and I even sent it to a guy who ended up flaking out on me and refusing to do it. He said he didn't want to charge me $400 for something I paid $200 for. Long story, short, I decided to return it and just get the insanely expensive Kawasaki enclosure next winter since the frigid temps here are about to start climbing in a couple weeks anyway. I first put it on just to see how it would look (I took pics of course) and found that it didnt even seal 100 percent and made it drafty inside the cab. So make that two major issues. At least with the stock enclosure everything will be top flight. Doors will be nice too.
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By Kingfish
I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1. I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386. With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge. When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be. I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage. My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it? I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.
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By JDawg
Was using the machine all day to haul wood...no issues until the end...
When I try to start it, the dash lights come on but starter does not...seems like no power to the starter.
It is in park, but when I put the brake on to start, it registers N.
Won't start in neutral either...
Tried rocking it, did not help...
Help...
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