Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

EZ heater for a Mule 2520

My first post here, but I thought I'd share this as I think it has some merit. I did a quick Mule Heater search but nothing came up. I live in N. MN. and will use my Mule to plow my 650 ft. driveway. Just got it running after 3 yrs. of dorking around with a broken
icon1.png
case and then two blown head gaskets. (Kept trying to "get all the air out of the cooling system" to now avail!!!) So, I found a cloth "cab" online and put it on and then began thinking about how I was going to keep the windshield from icing up. I looked at After Market heaters and they are EX-PEN-SIVE! I did find what appeared to be a good solution for around $200, but still didn't want to part with that much cash. (my wife sez i'm CHEAP...I prefer to think I am thrifty)

So I started thinking...with a rear engine and a front mounted radiator there shouldn't be any kind of engine contaminents in the air coming thru the radiator...so why not use THAT as my heater core? I'd been having trouble with the radiator mounted fan switch anyway and I wanted to pull that to troubleshoot it. I pulled the right front wheel off and the side panel next to the radiator and then removed the radiator. I guess you could do it without removing the side panel and wheel, but it's just four phillips head screws and you gain so much more light and visibility. I cautiously bored four 2 1/2 in. holes in open spots on the fire wall/floor boards directly in line with the radiator, carefully checking before I completely bored thru to make sure I wasn't going to hit any wiring our anything crucial. Now, when the cooling fan comes on it blows nice warm air in thru all the holes and works GREAT! I had actually purchased some 12v. computer cooling fans to screw to the firewall to pull more air thru, but the the radiator fan blows plenty of heat and moves much air. Maybe I'll need to add the fans for colder weather running. I was thinking I may need to "duct" one of the holes thru the fiberglass dash and up toward the windshield to de-fog that, but so far so good, so I will wait on that as well for colder weather testing.

I did stuff some weather stripping foam around some of the larger gaps in the area around the radiator. I also cut some 1/2" plywood and screwed it to the bottom side of the frame under the seat area and vertically ahead of the engine compartment to inimize outside air infiltration. (it also quieted the engine noise down as well!)

I can buy some 2 1/2" computer desk plugs to cover the floorboard holes for summer operation, but for now it's working exceptionally well, toasty warm in the cab at around 20
icon1.png
outside temps. Windows aren't fogging or anything.

I can only speak for the 2500 series, but I'm wondering if this
icon1.png
mod won't work for other models as well?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Ed Michael
      My older LM 650 is blowing fuel into the air cleaner.  Any idea on what would cause this?  It is the Suzuki motor.  Not sure what model year it is.
      Thanks
      Subaru SxS.mp4
    • By Prepper
      I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines.  There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil.  My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage).  While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure.  Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine.  Could they both be right ???
      Any thoughts ?
       
    • By UTVLover253
      Hey everyone – my name is Adam and I’m doing some market research to better understand the ATV / UTV community. I'm especially interested in hearing about:
      What you use your vehicle for (work, play, etc.)
      What you love about it
      What frustrates you
      What the overall experience of riding has been like
      If you're open to hopping on a casual 30-minute Zoom or phone call sometime this week or next, I’ll send you a $100 gift card as a thank-you.
      No sales, no pitches—just listening and learning. I'd also just ask that you send over a photo of you and your side-by-side in action (nothing formal—trail pics or selfies are totally fine!).
      If you're down to chat, drop a comment or DM me and we’ll find a time that works. Would really appreciate the chance to learn from you 🙏
      Thanks!
      – Adam
    • By rsar
      Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone pressure washes their Mule underbody. Three years in, I have yet to do this. I'm worried that the pressure washer could damage or dislodge something but it's gotten to the point that it could use a bath. Any thoughts?
    • By TjB
      My dad has recently acquired a 2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel powered. It worked fine  few weeks and then quit driving. Put a new belt on just to see. Still not driving. It already had a new clutch. Belt turns when in drive or reverse and back wheels are off ground to test. But wheels not turning. Thoughts? 
×
×
  • Create New...