Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys........yeaterday I took a ride. All of a sudden everything died. I turned the key on and nothing. My horn and gps stilled worked because they are connected directly to the battery. After a few minutes I tried the key again and the fan came on low. I tried to start it and it turned once, kinda like a dead battery. I waited a couple of minutes and turned the key on and the fan and gauges came alive. It started like normal. I ran about an 1/8 mile and everything quit again. This time it would not start.

I checked the fuses in the fuse box and all look good. I turned the key on and wiggled the wires under the dash. Nothing. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bruce

Posted
Hi guys........yeaterday I took a ride. All of a sudden everything died. I turned the key on and nothing. My horn and gps stilled worked because they are connected directly to the battery. After a few minutes I tried the key again and the fan came on low. I tried to start it and it turned once, kinda like a dead battery. I waited a couple of minutes and turned the key on and the fan and gauges came alive. It started like normal. I ran about an 1/8 mile and everything quit again. This time it would not start.

I checked the fuses in the fuse box and all look good. I turned the key on and wiggled the wires under the dash. Nothing. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bruce

does it have a master swich?

Posted

Not yet. I ordered a holder and 5 fuses from ebay and I should have them Friday. Casey at JMC said to check the main ground and make sure it's clean and tight. Also mentioned that the fan pulls a lot of amps and it might be a good idea to tie in a heavier wire to the ground wire and attach it to the frame back close to the fan somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By TPlummer
      We recently purchased the Axis x550. Fueled it with 93 fuel and drove one time around the farm and the 02 fault error appeared. Any ideas? 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By John Gubancsik
      I'm having trouble finding a replacement battery for my UT400.  Has anyone bought one and where did you get it?  Thanks.
    • By owencole15
      Massimo 500 will only crank when I jump solenoid with screwdriver cranks right up and runs great. But won’t start with key doesn’t do anything when I turn the key. Only thing it does is power everything as in dash and fuel pump then have to jump solenoid to crank up and drive. 
    • By LarryLarryQuiteRepairy
      Hello,
      Background: Bought a used 2012 700, added 2 small LED lights, wiring for a sprayer and changed front CV axles. 
      Had no electrical issues until recently. The old battery stopped charging so we got a new one, Rhino still wouldn't charge it.
      -Started next day, drove 15-20min, then out of nowhere the check engine light came on and temp too. 4WD started to automatically engage and disengage repeatedly. Charging display started jumping all around between 11 to 13 to 15v.
      -Relays, fuses, and battery connections seemed good.
      -Continuity on rectifier would jump btwn OL and 00.0
      -Rectifier wires from stator all read 20-21v at idle
      -Rectifier diode test had 1 bad reading. So, I replaced it with a new one (but still using original plugs) 
      Started it up, still shows no change (12.1v idle, 12.8 with some RPM)
      Also, I feel like now I maybe also smell burning plastic?
      Does anyone have experience with this problem or have a recommendation of where to go next?
×
×
  • Create New...