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By Jon V
Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
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By Isaac
I have a 2013 odes dominator when I get in it. It ideals fine but when you give it gas it bogs and goes and bogs and won’t go passed 30 can anyone help me
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By mac66
Apparently, these are Hisun or at least they use Hisun engines. I can't find much info on them online yet. Ran across a used one with just 100 miles on it as a very reasonable price. Just curious.
Okay, more info...they are owned by Textron Corp who also owns Bell Helicopter, Cessna & Beechcraft aircraft, Ez-Go & Cushman and Arctic Cat and a bunch of other companies.
So are thy cheap Chinese crap machines or are they good to go?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Mike Turner
American SportWorks LM 650 won’t start at times. Starter won’t engage the solenoid just “clicks” much like a weak battery would cause. Battery was replaced and problem went away and then came back. Replaced positive battery terminal. Problem resolved then returned. Replaced negative battery terminal. Problem gone then returned. Replaced the positive and negative battery cable ends. Problem resolved and now returned. The repair lasts for maybe 12 starts, then the solenoid just “clicks” again as it will with a weak battery. So I replaced the ignition switch. Problem solved for a week. With each “fix” the problem is resolved but only temporarily. Does anyone have any suggestions ? To replace the starter is expensive especially if it’s not the problem.
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