Quantcast
Jump to content


2008 joiner renegade t4


Recommended Posts

Hello, having trouble with a couple of gauges. I replaced 3 gauges. Oil,fuel,and water temp that gave out the same time. After replacing gauges I noticed now that my speed won't move when I'm driving. Only cycle when I turn key on. And my oil gauge goes all the way up when I turn key on. I think the sensor might be bad. Any idea on the problem I'm having? Tks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I assume you don't an oscilloscope, how about a volt meter that can read frequency, does you tach work? can you swap the plug going to you tach with the speedo plug and see if the input to the tach makes the speedo move as you rev the engine up & down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled the speed sensor it looked ok. Sensor still might be bad. Wish I had one to try. For the speed gauge and rpm, when I turn key on the two gauges cycles back and forth showing it works I guess. I thought it be weard that my oil gauge and pressure sending unit, fuel and sending unit , temp gauge give out the same time. All gauges work fine now after replacing them. Just the speed gauge left to fix. Like to have a speed sensor to try to see if that's the trouble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the same issue bud. There's only one good mechanic in all of panama, haha, and he happens to live close to me. But I love tinkering with my machine, so I try to do everything myself.

As for parts, I mail order everything in, and it comes out pretty good. Ebay is my big source for generic stuff, and joyner US for the rest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • By Charles Hamilton
      **Disclaimer: Yes, I know Polaris and Kawasaki are SOOO much more better, reliable, retain their value, not made in China, etc. I need a UTV and don't have the money or financing for one of those units, so let's keep this discussion productive please**
      Hi all, learning about my new T-Boss 760 from TSC, and am trying to find the actual dip stick to check the oil, funnily enough.
      Does anyone have a picture of it or something? It's crazy that I can't find it...yet here I am.
      Also - any advice on oil? Manual says 15W/40 "SJ" but I'm told the SJ spec doesn't exist anymore.
      Gentleman at TSC said to use any 15W/40, but I'm very nervous about causing an issue this early on by using the wrong oil.
      Anyone have advice?
      Thanks!
       
    • By Woody77
      UTV MASSIMOREPLACED STATOR WANT start replaced rectifier still want start stator ohms out 5 ohms each leg what could be wrong at this point 
    • By owencole15
      Massimo 500 will only crank when I jump solenoid with screwdriver cranks right up and runs great. But won’t start with key doesn’t do anything when I turn the key. Only thing it does is power everything as in dash and fuel pump then have to jump solenoid to crank up and drive. 
    • By Jon V
      Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...