Update, Jeep!
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By Alex
This is an interesting read. ADAS is main stream on cars these days. The technology looks to be headed towards UTVs and Off-Road Vehicles.
Potential Motors and CFMOTO USA have announced a new partnership to integrate advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS) into recreational off-road vehicles for the first time.
Sam Poirier, CEO and co-founder at Potential Motors, says the integration of its technology into CFMOTO’s vehicles will set new standards in the side-by-side segment. (Photo: Potential Motors Inc.) The partnership will first see Potential’s tech integrated into CFMOTO test vehicles. The companies will conduct extensive real-world testing at Potential’s purpose-built off-road proving ground in Fredericton, Canada, and CFMOTO facilities.
Source: https://powersportsbusiness.com/top-stories/2023/12/19/cfmoto-and-potential-motors-announce-industry-first-adas-technology-for-ohvs/
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By Alien10
I added lights to the Coleman Outfitter 550 last fall. I bought lights on line from Nilight, a 300 W 12" light bar mounted forward and 2 square 4" floods for the rear. Those are mounted on the roof corners facing rear and downward just beyond the tailgate. Nilights seem to be of high quality, as I've had them on my garden tractor for 5 years and still flood the way ahead with great light.
Both the front and rear lights provide amazing illumination making the OEM headlamps look like parking lights. Made a connector for the front bar that plugs into existing headlamp switch so it is just part of that circuit controlled by the headlamp switch. Rear work lamps were wired in using a rocker switch installed in the dash. Backed up to the garden with the work lights and was able to harvest some tomatoes well past sunset.
What have you used if anything for auxiliary lighting on your UTV?
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By res2fr
I have an issue and I'm hoping that someone can help with a little Wisdom. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU500 UTV that blew a time chain while out riding. It has been torn down to replave the chain and Sprocket amount other things that will be renewed. The problem comes in with setting Top Dead Center on the motor. The Manuals all teel one to line up hash marks on the flywheel with a point on the side cover under what's referred to in several place as a manhole cover. Its a large headed cap/bolt that unscrews and allows you to view the edge of the flywheel. There are hash marks on the flywheel that your supposed to turn the crank until you get the proper alignment between a certain hash mark and a reference point on the Case. Problem is there is NO reference point on the case there. I also have another 2016 MSU500 and a 2014 Coleman 500. Not one of these machines have a reference mark of any kind in that location. (I have pictures if needed)
I know I can use the old pull the valve covers and rotate the crank and rely on getting the right point where Both Intake and Exhaust valves are closed at hopefully the correct point in the piston stroke. Is there any other reference point that could be used for this or is this the only thing left to use for finding TDC? Gotta Love documentation that doesn't match the equipment it's supposed to be for, any help would be greatly appreciated. Even if just to tell me that's about my only option.
Thanks to all who even take the time to read my rambling question.
Robert
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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By rsar
Just got quoted $770 for my Mule's first 50 hour service. Is it just me, or does this seem insanely excessive? I was expecting something in the $350 to $500 range and thinking that even $500 would be a little high. Is dealer service really necessary at 50 hours? At this price I think I'd like to shop around for a mechanic that could do it for half the price. I don't really have the option of shoping around for a cheaper Kawasaki dealer, as there is just this one dealer a reasonable distance away (30 min). The next closest olne is 3 hours away.
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