Front CV shaft

[Merchant Mariner]

So I busted my right front outer CV joint while playing around on the rocks. Luckly I have a spare shaft in the garage, but I'm not having much luck getting the old one out. I have the spindle removed from the outer end, but can not get the shaft off the front diff. Am I missing something, cause I thought it should just slid off the output shaft of the diff?

Anyone done these? Got the secret I'm missing?

[Kinarfi]

usually I can get that CV joint to pop loose using a 2 foot nail bar but if that fails take a 3/8 inch chain and the grab hook and wrap it around it and then stand back and slap the chain 2 or 3 times and I'll pop it off good luck

Kinarfi

[bruhaw]

I got the tool from Autozone which is an axle remover. Looks like a slide hammer and with a few good pulls the axle will pop out. Easiest way to get it out. In the gallery I have an actual picture of it but if you go to Autozone or another parts house they will probably have one.

[bigdan120]

I used a brass 11/2" x 14 round bar. I put it on the back side off the inner cv the best I could on say a 45 degree through front frame and I beat it with a 3 lb hammer. Works pretty good. I use this method a good bit.

[plumber]

I do it the same way as bigdan120 but I use a 2x4

[Merchant Mariner]

Alright, I've tried multiple approaches here. Bigger hammer, bigger pry bar, bigger stick, etc. Still no luck with this thing. I can't understand what's holding it on there at this point. It has slop in it, the shaft coupling wiggles slightly on the shaft. It just won't come off of there.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try again in a few days when I have some more garage time to play with. I tried getting the tool from AutoZone, but they said they didn't have one. Thanks to bruhaw's photo gallery now I've got their part number and can go back in there and get the right tool! Hopefully that will make this a little easier.

[Kinarfi]

How much mud have you played in? is it probable that you got enough mud in the grooves and it dried so the circlip can't collapse and release the CV. You may want to try squirting water into the spline, maybe even high pressure washer, but if you do that, you may want to open the differential to see how water got by the seal. Another thought is blow air and see if you can blow out the dust.

http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/979-2187422630104282158sgqwax-fs/

Question, are you familiar with this method?

[Merchant Mariner]

How much mud have you played in? is it probable that you got enough mud in the grooves and it dried so the circlip can't collapse and release the CV. You may want to try squirting water into the spline, maybe even high pressure washer, but if you do that, you may want to open the differential to see how water got by the seal. Another thought is blow air and see if you can blow out the dust.

http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/979-2187422630104282158sgqwax-fs/

Question, are you familiar with this method?

Tried the chain method as you suggested earlier, no luck. The previous owner primarily used this in the dunes, so what your saying about having dirt stoping the clip from collapsing may be highly likely. At this point it honestly looks like I'm gonna have to get surgical with a cut off wheel. If I keep banging around harder and harder on this thing, I'm gonna mess up my diff.

[bigdan120]

Ok wd40 it. Then get a buddy to help. Use a pry bar 3' is what I used on my rear placed in where you can then straight across from it use the punch bar and big hammer. Wood dont work we'll cause it gives to much. But saves on damage. That's why I use brass bar.

[Kinarfi]

It may be possible to disassemble the inner CV, remove the seal that is in there and squirt, blow, wash the crap out of the groove so it comes apart, or even just leave it and do the rest of the repairs and then reassemble it. After you get the boot off, there's just a large circlip holding the parts together and once removed, the ball cage and shaft just slide right out.

I get my CV grease from O'Reilly's

[Kinarfi]

Ok wd40 it. Then get a buddy to help. Use a pry bar 3' is what I used on my rear placed in where you can then straight across from it use the punch bar and big hammer. Wood dont work we'll cause it gives to much. But saves on damage. That's why I use brass bar.

I have been told that WD40 (Water Displacement formula 40) is not a lubricant, so you may want to try something like Triflow or some other product that actually claims to be a lubricant

[bigdan120]

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.[5] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away.

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages. The product also may be useful in displacing moisture, as this is its original purpose and design intent.

Due to its lightness (i.e., low viscosity), WD-40 is not always the preferred oil for certain applications. Applications that require higher viscosity oils may use motor oils, while those requiring a mid-range oil could use honing oil.[6]. Just sayin.

[bigdan120]

To get that dang circlip loosened up.

[Kinarfi]

Not problem, after I misspoke my self about old tales, I googled WD40, they had some pretty weird uses for it, 51 of them, how ever they hadn't found out about loosening circlips.

[bigdan120]

Lol They should add it. I use it just to loosen up dirt and rust on alot of things.

[Merchant Mariner]

its been a while, but I finally got to get back to the trooper and get that cv shaft changed out. I tried the chain method, tried the prying method, tried the axels shaft remover w/ slide hammer, etc. None of the tricks worked..... I ended up cutting the thing off with a grinder and cutting wheel. Yes this took a lot of work and time, and some surgical skills with the grinder but I managed to get it split without damaging the shaft or diff or seals. Really didn't think it was gonna be that hard. Beers easy the frustration, but only after the grinding was done!

[nocturnalsixer]

its been a while, but I finally got to get back to the trooper and get that cv shaft changed out. I tried the chain method, tried the prying method, tried the axels shaft remover w/ slide hammer, etc. None of the tricks worked..... I ended up cutting the thing off with a grinder and cutting wheel. Yes this took a lot of work and time, and some surgical skills with the grinder but I managed to get it split without damaging the shaft or diff or seals. Really didn't think it was gonna be that hard. Beers easy the frustration, but only after the grinding was done!

My front CV was so hard as well i had to take front suspension apart but before i put it back together i coated all mating parts with "anti-seize" the silver grey stuff on splines before i put CV on in hopes that anti seize would keep the parts clean and free moving

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

[2scoops]

Glad to hear you got it off.

[Kinarfi]

When ever I pull the CVs, before put them back on, I cut a piece of 1/2" polyurethane foam into a circle with a hole in the center and put over the shaft, it seems to being a good job of keeping the dirt out which should prevent your problem and keeps it away from the seals also.

[Merchant Mariner]

My front CV was so hard as well i had to take front suspension apart but before i put it back together i coated all mating parts with "anti-seize" the silver grey stuff on splines before i put CV on in hopes that anti seize would keep the parts clean and free moving

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

Yeah, I ended up having to take the front suspension out also, so I could have better access to the joint. Everything got a liberal coating of anti-seize or grease as it was put back together. Also found out how dried out the ball joints were. Ended up drilling and tapping the tops of those to accept a grease fitting and greased them up. As annoyed as I was to have the extra work to do at the time, I'm sure it'll save me hours of work in the future.

[Kinarfi]

When Lenny and I put zerks on our ball joints, we found that as grease is pumped in, the ball plug the path for the grease and it comes out through the threads, what I did was disassemble it by grinding the welds off the top, if it hasn't already cracked, unscrew the top which I then drilled, tapped and zerked, then I took the ball and dremelled 3 spiraling, very small, grooves for the grease to flow through, screw the top back on till snug but free moving, weld the cap back on solidly, now when I grease it, it goes clear through and fills the boot up. I highly recommend this be done to all ball joints,even new ones.