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By CapnWalleye
Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
- drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
- replaced the fuel injector.
- disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
- set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
- replaced the battery.
- replaced the O2 sensor.
Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
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By A P
Hi
I have a 2022 hisun sector eps 550. 30amp fuse is blown for eps. Checked the motor and it’s fine. Opened up the controller and found a bad diode. Dealer wanted 500$ for the controller. Just posting this in case it helps someone. I couldn’t read numbers from the old one so just took a guess and replaced it with a 100v 3amp diode.
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By CYJSP2009
Dear Friends,
2022 Brand new Joyner CV Axles and CV Joint rebuild kits are comming
1. S650.03.02.02.00 ---Joyner 650 Commando Rear
2. TR1100.03.01.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Front
3. TR1100.03.02.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Rear
4. D650.03.02.02.00 --- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Left
5. D650.03.02.03.00--- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Right
6. SV800.03.02.01.00 --- Joyner 800 Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft Left
7. 14274 --- 650 ider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
8. 15803 --- 650 Sand Spider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
Attached are the part photos for reference.
Above parts are now on the way to USA, will be ready for inland delivery in middle of July.
Price: CV Axle: USD250/ Piece; CV Joint kit （without grease): USD110 send to door.
There will be special discount availabe for deals completed within July 2022.
Buy 1 piece: Get 5% discount,
Buy 2 pieces: get 10% discount.
Buy 3 pieces: get 15% discount,
Buy 4 and more than 4 pieces: get 20% discount.
Please kindly note Qty for each part is not big and it is hard to forcast when there will be next offer for these kind of products unless there is sufficient confirmed order qty for productioin arrangement.
Payment method: Payoneer payment link ( can pay through bank account or credit card) or Paypal ( [email protected]) . Payment commission paid by the buyer.
Interested parties, please contact [email protected].
Thanks
Good Luck
Casey / Leaf Asia
July-07-2022
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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