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By hetovi
Hey everyone,
I’m in the market for a UTV windshield that can withstand extreme conditions, including high winds, dust, and off-road impacts.
I’ve seen a lot of options out there, but I’m unsure which one will provide the best protection and durability.
Does anyone have experience with windshields that excel in these environments? Are there specific brands or materials you recommend?
I’m particularly interested in options that offer both durability and clarity.
Any tips or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated!
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By Isaac
I have a 2013 odes dominator when I get in it. It ideals fine but when you give it gas it bogs and goes and bogs and won’t go passed 30 can anyone help me
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By kadams428
Recently my four wheeler has had an issue of being set in gear and it begins riding on its own (up to 3-4MPH). It also is having difficulty shifting into different gears after riding in one gear (i.e. going from reverse to high gear). It will shift perfectly fine when shut off, but consistently has both issues stated above.
Previous research has shown me that it could be an issue with belt tension/deflection, however I have been unable to figure out how to do that with these machines. I've seen some clutches have a jam nut and all that is needed is a wrench and an Allen key to make adjustments, but I haven't seen/found that on the 600 clutches. Has anyone done this in the past or have knowledge of how to accomplish this?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Alien10
A while back I was looking at an auction UTV plow and the mounting of it. Looked like it had an "H" bar with two pins that hooked into brackets on the front frame of the UTV. I have a bunch of 1/4" x2" angle iron, and some 2"x1/2" flat stock in the barn. I was thinking of welding up a bolt on implement mount that would provide 2 holes about 14" apart, that pins could be used to hook up an "H" frame for a plow or even a straight bar across with pins to hold it in place. The angle iron "A" would utilize the existing bumper mounting bolts front and bottom, and have the two channels "B" with holes for individual pins or one large bar across. Those channels would be welded to the ends of the angle iron.
Anyone ever try this for a front mount? It would be close to this one that is for sale on the net. It is supposed to fit a KFI plow mount.
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