Quantcast
Jump to content


Front Drive Line

Kinarfi

By Kinarfi
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

It's been quite a while since I had to pull my front drive line and I don't remember if it has a snap ring or what! Any way, it's not sliding off by hand and I'm not sure if I just need to pry it or what. Anyone know what it takes to get it to separate from the transmission, I have the carrier bearing loose and the forward half out already.

Last time out, it started making a metalic popping noise from time time and it looks like I may have a problem with the U joint nearest the tranny.

Haven't been able to find any thing in any of the manuals yet either.

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Another thought about front drive lines, I know Lenny changed his to a single piece, but he said he had to move the engine back or diff forward to put it in. I'm wondering if it would be possible to put a CV set up similar do the axles and do away with that carrier bearing, and then if I do that, I'll probably probably do it with a heavier gauge aluminum pipe of a larger diameter so I can put electro or permanent magnets close to it to create drag when going down hill, but that's probably cost prohibitive, goto http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current_brake if you want more info on what I have in mind.

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was having trouble getting the drive line to slide all the way out after I finally got it sliding, the carrier bearing bracket was hitting the frame, so I had to remove the bracket from around the carrier bearing rubber mount, a bit of a pain, but necessary, I suggest some form of lubrication such as windex or denatured alcohol. After I got it out, I found that the yoke closest to the tranny was bad and the bearing could be spun in the yoke. A local drive line specialist said to tack weld the bearing and put a zerk in the bearing, pump it full of grease and run it until it fails. I did a bit more than a tack.

Please take a look at this photo and see if I have the U joints of the two pieces aligned properly. https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9NEg1c1IwMlR0djA

Here's the rest of the associated photos,

https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9NEg1c1IwMlR0djA

Thanks,

Kinarfi

2scoops Proficient

2scoops

Posted
Posted

Jeff, I don't have my Trooper at my house to tell you if you driveline is aligned properly or not. Have you figured it out?

Now that you have had it out how much weightsavings would you guess it would be to do a one piece driveshaft? I am on a mission this winter to shed some pounds.

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Jeff, I don't have my Trooper at my house to tell you if you driveline is aligned properly or not. Have you figured it out?

Now that you have had it out how much weightsavings would you guess it would be to do a one piece driveshaft? I am on a mission this winter to shed some pounds.

I would guess that the loss of carrier bearing(5lb) and the bracket that holds it (2 lb) and the center U joint vs the tube all and all 10 lb +-

alignment doesn't matter now that it's in, but I think it's correct.

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted

Jeff, I don't have my Trooper at my house to tell you if you driveline is aligned properly or not. Have you figured it out?

Now that you have had it out how much weightsavings would you guess it would be to do a one piece driveshaft? I am on a mission this winter to shed some pounds.

If you do it right, you can save about 25 pounds. I did. alignment will be important with a one piece drive shaft without any u joints what so ever. Alignment is easy.

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lenny, here's one to ponder upon, is it possible to use standard CVs like we have in the axles or rear drive and have an aluminum drive shaft between them, I think an 1/8" wall and 6 to 8" diameter drive line tube would meet my ulterior motive here. Ulterior motive you ask, have a large enough diameter drive line to use with eddy current braking, larger sheds heat better, has more leverage, has more speed so magnetic eddy current braking is more effective, I know eddy current braking will work with non ferrous metals, I think it would have to work with ferrous metals, they use it on locomotives and the tracks, but I don't know.

Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

Posted
Posted

Lenny, here's one to ponder upon, is it possible to use standard CVs like we have in the axles or rear drive and have an aluminum drive shaft between them, I think an 1/8" wall and 6 to 8" diameter drive line tube would meet my ulterior motive here. Ulterior motive you ask, have a large enough diameter drive line to use with eddy current braking, larger sheds heat better, has more leverage, has more speed so magnetic eddy current braking is more effective, I know eddy current braking will work with non ferrous metals, I think it would have to work with ferrous metals, they use it on locomotives and the tracks, but I don't know.

You don't need any u-joints or cv's if you align the trans output with the front diff input. Might be hard to get 6" or 8" in the available space.

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You don't need any u-joints or cv's if you align the trans output with the front diff input. Might be hard to get 6" or 8" in the available space.

Mine has most of the drive line covers off so I'll take some photos

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • didgeridoo
      Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?
      By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • mcraigchr
      550 - Diff fluid change and final drive?
      By mcraigchr
      Howdy y'all,
      I have the service manual, but it leaves me with questions.
      1)  It is time to change the diff fluid.  The service manual says 80w-90 for the rear and Dextron 3 ATF for the front!  Is that correct?  That seems odd to me.
      2) The service manual also speaks of the need to change the transmission fluid but gives no detail about it.  What needs to happen here?
      3). The service manual also discusses changing the final drive fluid with 80-90 Hypoid.  Is the final drive actually the tranny?
      Any details about the changing of the fluid or what fluid to use ... or even other things that need to be changed that the manual does not mention would be appreciated.
      Thanks,
      Craig C.  
    • lincolnsq175
      Are there any performance parts for ut400?
      By lincolnsq175
      Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
      I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
      Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
      I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
       
      Any info is appreciated.
    • CRV
      Need some help. Looking for some parts too
      By CRV
      Howdy new member here . My hobby's Rabbit dogs , gamefowl . I'm retired from my real job but I stay busy with the hounds and gamefowl . So to help around the farm I ran across an old 2007 CC Big Country 4x2 to haul feed , water , sprayer and my sorry a$$ .It is in pretty good shape , 781 hrs. good plastic , tires, ect. . But as anything outside and 18 years old it needs seats ! The thing I have found wrong mechically the Diff. Lock Acturtor is broken where it mounts to the bracket ( partly why Im here ) . Hoping someone here can help  ! Just my wish list but Id like to find a roll cage and a composit/plastic top for it Im thinking I'll need a donor to salvage these things from ( again partly why Im here ) .Is there another brand that uses this same actuator? If anyone reads this and has or knows of any of threse parts PLEASE HOLLER !! 
      Again Howdy brothers & sisters

    • Robbie Wyre
      2005 Cub Cadet side by side front axles
      By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...