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By hetovi
Hey everyone,
I’m in the market for a UTV windshield that can withstand extreme conditions, including high winds, dust, and off-road impacts.
I’ve seen a lot of options out there, but I’m unsure which one will provide the best protection and durability.
Does anyone have experience with windshields that excel in these environments? Are there specific brands or materials you recommend?
I’m particularly interested in options that offer both durability and clarity.
Any tips or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated!
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By Greg Kilgore
Was at Lowe's over the weekend. The wife and I seen they have a new Axis 550. That thing is sharp. Has a complete door. Speakers in door. Bigger engine. Bench seats. New styling all the way around. Looks to be more air tight than my 2022 model. I really like the looks but $10k is out of my price range for now. Unless I could sell mine. And the resale on the Axis 500 is nothing.
Went to the local wally world today. See a 4 person Polaris General 1000 on the back of a trailer. That Polaris looked exactly like a stretched version of the Axis 550. Even down to the vents in the windshield.
Just wondering if anyone can confirm or deny the Axis 550 is a copy of the Polaris?
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By onealmck
I have a 2019 T-Boss 410 that died one day after we parked it. It had been getting harder to start (had to hold the throttle down) for some time but would not start. The starter clutch seized while I was trying to start it. I replaced the starter clutch and it will not start. It appears to have solid fuel pressure and solid spark. It "fires" but will not actually run. The exhaust gets hot after cranking so I know that's actually firing but it won't fully start. Any ideas?
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By Isaac
I have a 2013 odes dominator when I get in it. It ideals fine but when you give it gas it bogs and goes and bogs and won’t go passed 30 can anyone help me
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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