Quantcast
Jump to content


Just the clutch, or...


Tinman

Recommended Posts

Clutch and pressure plate?

It's been 15k kms on my machine, and my clutch is slipping. Figured it's time to change it, but should I change the pressure plate too?

Looked in the forums, but haven't seen this question addressed.

Did see Lenny's post on the pressure plate and throwout bearing fork upgrades, but still undecided as mine has worked fine for what I'm doing...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stock clutch disc is fine and should hold up good. I went to a Kevlar disk and a high pressure plate because I could slip the stock setup. But I had lots of power and large wheels. I doubt you would need a high pressure plate and the stock disc should be fine. My only thought would be if the pressure plate spring plate got hot and lost some of its push. Probably not but I guess I would replace both seeing as its not the easiest thing to redo should you fine it necessary. I didn't like the Kevlar disk and went back to the stock one but still used the high pressure plate. If you do go with a new pressure plate, you have the option of taking the spring plate out of your old one and adding it to the new plate doubling its pressure. Mine was triple the pressure from stock.. This would probably extend the life of the disc thinking that as it wares and gets thinner, the pressure plate can't push quite as hard on it with it reaching farther to do its job. A second spring would help this a lot. My thinking is that as the disc wares, it sooner or later starts to slip. That slipping causes a lot of heat which then caused an accelerating failure. As usual, I'm always trying to over think everything and beat it to death. Do reinforce the engagement fork.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree Kinarfi.

I've worked on high performance cars and motorcycles, and they always do when I dump the clutch. Motorcycle clutches are different, but they work the same way. I think I will add the springs. Just have to print Lenny's pic of the throw out bearing fork upgrade. Wife is with me on most of my trips, so it has to be reliable, just so I don't hear the 100 question interrogation as I try to fix the machine.

As an aside, on my last trip, something unusual happened - three different failures:

#1 a short circuit that cut out my fuel pump and

#2 my rad fan. Only found out the total damage as I repaired each in turn.

Then,

#3 no fuel pressure. I patched the pump up directly to the master cutoff switch, but left it on by mistake when I came across an idiot in no-man's land with no 4x4 blocking the road and refusing to budge. Left the master on, pump working, and figured I had burned out the bosch pump when I realized what I did. So, I switched to my old joyner pump. Still, no fuel pressure.

Looked in the tank, it was full of crap. Pulled the hose, and no gas leaked out. Turns out it was blocked. Sheesh. Blew through and it cleared the garbage enough to limp home. suuuu, I got some simple work to do.

Lesson: Always bring extra wire, always look for the stupid solution first. And don't trust your gas stations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By redneckred
      I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X.  I bought it used.  It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched.  I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel).  The machine cranked and ran beautifully.  I had it over a year and then the machine quit running.  As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve.  I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old.  Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear.  Then forward quit.  I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one.  Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose.  (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them.  I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank.  It turns over fine.  It gets gas to the injector and has spark.  I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out.  I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change.  I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did.  I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off.  I have to disconnect the battery to stop it.  Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing?  Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing?  Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving.  I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful.  Thanks in advance.
    • By Josh5696
      So I've got a 2022 Axis 500 UTV with only 50 miles on the odometer. It seems to have a strange grinding/squeeling noise coming from the clutch when decelerating or going down hill at lower speeds. Did some research, and found out this is apparently a fairly common thing. Alot of sources suggest the one way bearing is responsible. I'm hearing about quite a few horror stories about these bearings going bad on practically new machines, and when they replace the bearing it goes bad again shortly after.
      Has anyone come up with a solid fix for this? I've read it may be possible to run the UTV without the bearing at all, is that true? Are the $20 replacement bearings from eBay and Amazon complete garbage, and is there a better one way bearing out there that's built stronger? Is there something else causing this bearing to wear out faster, or is the stock bearing complete junk?
      Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance!
    • By Kingfish
      I have done a LiPo4 battery upgrade on my E1.  I have reprogrammed the charge profile to #386.  With the onboard BMS the controller cuts off all charge from the IC1200 when the battery reaches 100% to prevent overcharge.  When this happens the charger begins flashing the yellow light and displays the error code 013 which is telling me the battery is no longer accepting a charge input which is as it should be.  I hear a relay switching in and out every few seconds as the charger continues to try to reach the shutoff charge profile voltage.  My question is will it cause any harm to the IC1200 to stay in this state for hours or maybe even days if I don't get out to unplug it?  I used to leave the E1 plugged in all the time with the old Discover batteries.
    • By hetovi
      Hello everyone.
      I recently bought a Can-Am Ryker and I'm looking to customize it with some accessories. I’ve seen a lot of options out there but wanted to get some recommendations from fellow riders.
      What are the must-have accessories for comfort, style, or performance?
      Specifically, I'm considering a windshield and better footpegs—are these worth the investment?
      Also, any thoughts on storage solutions like saddlebags or rear cases?
      Would love to hear your personal experiences with any mods you’ve done.
    • By Wesley
      I have a 2022 500 Hisun product, I have had them in the past. I change my oil myself and trying to drain through the hole where I remove the plug is a mess.  How does everyone keep the belly pan clean during the oil and filter service?
       
      Wes Jackson
×
×
  • Create New...