Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All

I have owned a 2008 Commando for a little over a year. It is relatively low milage for its age as it was stored for most of those years. In any case I have managed to tear up the rear reducer. I have several question for any one with experience:

1 It appears that the reducer can be separated from the drive shaft by removing cotter key and pin?

2 Are the half axles removed by snatching with a slap hammer? Any easy way to to get them out?

3 Once all that is done, will the reducer clear the various cross members to get it out of the frame.

4 I see a lot of references to "Lenny" in reference to upgrade kits. Can someone give me a link to "Lenny" and do any of his kits fit the Commando?

5 Has anyone developed a description of the reducer teardown and rebuild or a YouTube of same.

Any info is greatly appreciated and thanks!

Posted

In answer to my own question and to guide anyone else who is contemplating such and undertaking, here is a brief description for removing the rear reducer from a Commando:



1. Remove tilt bead after disconnecting all wiring to rear lights.



Note: this requires helpers, an engine lift or a front end loader to pick up the bed -it is heavy!



2. Remove brake calipers on both sides and support from frame with baling wire.


3. Remove brake disks.


4. Remove axle nuts and bearing supports on each side. Bearing support is held by two bolts to swing arms.


5. Pop out half shafts with pry bar or similar tool between reducer housing and half shaft. Use tool large enough to spread load so that there is no damage to housing. Joyner only sells complete diffusers but no internal parts so if diffuser is trash -have at it.


6. Clear access to reducer; it will be removed straight up between frame members:


a. Remove breather(?) Fitment from exhaust pipe. It is connected to a hose; tuck out of way.


b. Remove distributer coil and mounting bracket.


c. Cut zip ties on wiring harness if necessary to place slack in harness.


7. Turn emergency brake disk so that retaining pin is horizontal. The pin is on the drive shaft side of the disk. Remove cotter pin and retaining pin.


8. Using baling wire, tie emergency brake disk up to frame above to support it's weight.



Note; at this point it helps to have external support on reducer. If available use a strap and engine lift or overhead hoist or other means. This also reduces the effort in extracting the reducer later.



9. Using a large screw driver or similar tool inserted between the emergency brake disk and the reducer separate the disk from the reducer. There is a splined shaft on the reducer that fits into the disc hub.



CAUTION! Make sure you do not extract the drive shaft from the transmission! Work the emergency brake disk/drive shaft toward the transmission as you lower the reducer and work the reducer to the rear of the machine. The spline shaft is about 2" long and there is enough room to accomplish this even if it doesn't look like it.


10. Once the spline has cleared, the reducer can be turned vertical and will clear the frame.



Be prepared for oil spill. The reducer will empty itself during the above procedure. Either drain it before or have a way of catching the oil during the procedure. Use penetrating oil liberally. Most fasteners are secured with lock tight. Use when going back together!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By D MAYNARD
      I have an Axis 500 4x4 UTV that I was given.  It looks like an almost new machine with 39 hrs on it however it was apparently under water from the hurricane . I have no spark at the plug. I have replaced the plug, the plug wire, & the stator so far. Can anyone advise me of what i need to check and or replace to get this thing running? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 
                                    Thank You,
                                  D Maynard 
       
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By ned
      I have a Kubota RTV -X900 that I recently got from someone that is in good condition.  I'm trying to determine what year it is all to no avail.  I have the 16 digit product identification number and have gone on line to multiple sites with no luck.  The number is A5KB2FDBCFG024444 .  I'd appreciate it if someone could give me an idea where to look this number up and get the year on this unit.  Thanks in advance.
    • By staind
      Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM. 
      I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc. 
      I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking. 
      This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
      I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
      This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever. 
      thanks Dan D. aka staind
    • By Tejun
      Neighbor rode their Coleman with the park brake apparently not fully released. Needless to say, things got pretty hot and even started smoking and the smoke was definitely gear oil smell. Looks like oil is coming from the area just behind the disc for the park break. Looking at parts diagram, there is an oring behind the nut/washer that attaches the flange to pinion shaft. I'm not finding anything on YT that would help with disassembly. Anyone have some experience with removing rear driveshaft ?
×
×
  • Create New...