Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have an 06 Mule 610 with about 650 hours on it. I have been having in intermittent problem with starting. The battery is good, no loose ground wires, or any other easily identified issues. But about 50% of the time when you turn the key, you can hear (and feel) the solenoid moving in the starter motor, but the motor itself fails to turn, so it does not start. And then 5 minutes later you might be able to go back to it and turn the key and it will start right up. Or it won't start at all. But every time you can hear the solenoid moving.

I have pretty much decided that the starter needs to be replaced. I can see it sitting there right on top of the engine. (Did I mention that my mule is 120 miles away from where I am sitting now? I keep it at my property and only get to use it - or work on it - on the weekends.) But when I look in the service manual - man, they have you removing a whole lot of parts, apparently just to allow you to get to it. (You are instructed to remove the torque converter among other parts.) And some of these steps require tools that I don't have.

I would prefer to do this work myself as the nearest dealer is 2 hours away. Anyone have first-hand experience changing the starter? Is it really as hard as it is described in the service manual?

Thanks in advance!

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Yes, to get to the starter you have to remove the torque converter........sad but true......poor part placement. It's not a hard job to do as long as you have the puller for the converter. Without the puller you'll be making up all kinds of new swear words.... :\.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Rainman
      I want to put a charger/maintainer for my Coleman UT400 for the winter and need to know if it uses a 6v or 12v battery.
      One search online showed a 6v, but another stated 12v..
      I can look at the battery, but after taking the seat out you cannot see the top of the battery without also removing the top plate under the seat and at 8 degrees outside, I'd rather not be out there too long.
      Can anyone verify what volt (6 or 12) the batter is?
      Thanks in advance ...
    • By Eagle Mountain Outfitters
      Our R&D team just finished the first unit and wanted to show you guys. Need more cargo space without losing the functionality of being able to fold down the seat to use the full bed? Eagle Mountain Outfitters, the maker of the original metal UTV roof, has designed a foldable rear cargo basket to meet your needs. Price is $625 + $30 shipping.  If you have any question's, please reach out to me at [email protected]
       

    • By Texjpr
      2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass  switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
    • By Dennis
      I have  a bulldog i bought from home depot in 2013.  In the last season it started refusing to shift from neutral to either forward or reverse.  I changed the trans axle fluid and made sure the cables were lubricated and free.  With a lot of coaxing, I can sometimes get it to shift.  once I start driving it, things improve until I let it set awhile.   Any suggestion on where to go from here?
    • eManualonline.com Save 30% OFF Sitewide, Use code: XMAS30
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...