Quantcast
Jump to content


2012 trans 4010 diesel cooling system trouble

rockzilla

By rockzilla
in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

rockzilla Newbie

rockzilla

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone,

My name is Rocky, I'm new to this forum and I have a 2012 Kawasaki Mule 4010 trans diesel. I just recently got this machine. And I love it. I worked and drove an older gas mule before and never ran into this problem...

Not long into the first ride the coolant light came on. I ran it a little longer and it continue to stay on. So I started reading about it and took a look at the cooling system. The supply and return line are long as hell and I assumed there was air in them. Well after many hours and gallons of coolant, it still comes on... I have tried parking on a hill, warming it up, I lifted the front end up with tl my overhead winch. Using the breather screw etc. It'll stay off and the fan will kick on when I'm driving up hill, but when I start descending... The light comes on and the fan won't work.

If anyone has any ideas, steps to a proper burping, or anything else I'd greatly appreciate it. Also just to be sure I got a new radiator cap, thermostat, and temperature sensor coming in.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KAWMECH Apprentice

KAWMECH

Posted
Posted

Diesel mules are an SOB to burp out. It can take up to 45 minutes to truly burp one out. #2, The diesel mule hates to get overheated. If, as you say, you kept driving agter the light came on, then I would go ahead and plan on replacing head gasket. 9 out 10 diesel mules that come to our shop that have been driven after the light came on, we find the head gasket craked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Callie
      2021 Bobcat uv34xl gas Keeps Overheating
      By Callie
      We have replaced the relay/fuse, water pump, fan & radiator cap. What are we missing? Fan still won't kick on.
    • Clayton Walker
      Im New here but just got my Uforce Fitted for Hunting Season
      By Clayton Walker
    • Kingfish
      Now that I have done the LI-Ion batt conversion, I need to do something about the suspension
      By Kingfish
      The conversion took about 350lbs. off the vehicle.  It never rode great, but now I feel every  crack in the road.  I have backed off spring compression nut to the point just under where they would move around if suspension was at full extension, but it is still very stiff.  I would like to put some softer coilover springs on it, but I have no idea what the spring rate is with the original springs so I would just be guessing on what to order.  Does anyone have the data for the original spring compression rate?  I am willing to give up a little ground clearance for a softer ride. Right now when sitting still the rear suspension is at or near full extension and the rear tires have several degrees of camber which will cause uneven wear if allowed to continue in this state.
    • Brett
      2006 Polaris Ranger 700 side by side idles fine but dies when you touch the gas
      By Brett
      Fuel injected 700 starts great and idles great but touch the gas and it dies
    • redneckred
      Gremlins in the machine
      By redneckred
      I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X.  I bought it used.  It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched.  I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel).  The machine cranked and ran beautifully.  I had it over a year and then the machine quit running.  As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve.  I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old.  Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear.  Then forward quit.  I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one.  Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose.  (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them.  I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank.  It turns over fine.  It gets gas to the injector and has spark.  I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out.  I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change.  I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did.  I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off.  I have to disconnect the battery to stop it.  Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing?  Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing?  Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving.  I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful.  Thanks in advance.

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...