Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

have a new actuator to install, but can't seem to get the old one off. Have removed the screw and can wiggle it freely, but cant get the tube and o ring that go to into the differential to come free. trying not to break it off in the process. Any suggestions besides more brute force?

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Hey there,

What process did you go through to figure out you needed a new part?

I have a 2006 650 Commando and 4wd is not engaging. I pushed the button on the dash. That is the extent of my checking out what the problem is so far.

I realized the 4wd wasn't working when I went to move the machine and got stuck in a little bit of snow and the front wheels were not moving. 

I am still re-habing the machine and this would be the next on the list.

Thanks for any info.

 

 

Posted

From other posts I have seen sounds like there should be power to the actuator when the switch is in the 2wd position and no power in the 4wd position.  Is this correct?

Default position should be 4wd?

If I do take off the actuator to look at it closer is there parts going to go flying (springs ect)?  Would you suggest takling the hood off to be able to see from above?

Hood is on now and I would try working on it from the wheel well.

Will I need anything new like gaskets to be able to re-install?

Thanks

Bill

Posted

Well I have power to the switch and down to the actuator.

I went to take out the actuator unit and when I took out the screw through the firewall it backed out but was against the wall so i couldn't move it to remove it.(up against the firewall).

But as I was looking at it,  I must have brushed up and turned the tire which turned the other tire.

The pin must have come out allowing the 4wd. which I am happy with.

I put the two screws back in and then lost the 4wd.  I backed off the screw coming through the firewall and must be enough to allow it to go back in 4wd.

I guess the short story is the actuator is toast but I can go in and out of 4wd by turning the screw.

Anyone with more thoughts on this subject?

Thanks

Bill

 

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)
       
      Just picked up my first side by side a couple days ago. A 2020 Can-Am Defender HD10 DPS 6x6. 

       
      It's in pretty good shape, but as you can probably tell, it's sitting a bit high. Former owner put a lifting collar on the shocks. 

       
      The good = almost 17" of ground clearance. (30" tires) 
      The bad = incredibly steep driveline angles, and a pretty stiff ride. 
       
      They will be coming off. 
       
      Other than that... clean as a pin and appears very well maintained. 
       
      Looking forward to seeing what this forum can bring, and hoping I can bring something in return. 
    • By Bloodhound
      Don't know the size anyone know the reliability fo theae
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By staind
      Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM. 
      I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc. 
      I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking. 
      This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
      I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
      This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever. 
      thanks Dan D. aka staind
×
×
  • Create New...