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Brakes.....

charlie

By charlie
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

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charlie Experienced

charlie

Posted
Posted

Hey guys please did a 100 miles on my trooper this weekend I noticed that sometimes I hit the brake the pedal seemed low or soft and I noticed that sometimes after braking a little hard the next time I hit the brakes the pedal was hard. No leaks still got meat on the pads I'm assuming maybe internal master cylinder leak any ideas has anyone replaced a master cylinder and with one

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

My guess is that the caliper plunger is getting pushed back a little more than usual and that makes the pedal feel soft because it has to push the plunger back to normal and the onto to the brake.

This could indicate that there is play in the wheel bearing, jack the wheels off the ground and wiggle the tires.

charlie Experienced

charlie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I do have a little play in my front bearing but I have talked to Casey at jmc a few times about it and he feels like I am Probally with in spec. When I take the wheels off and grab the rotor the play is minumil and no grinding or noise from the bearings I have tried to get the bearing tighter nothing has worked and they r tappered bearing last time I replaced one there wasn't much difference

bigdan120 Rising Star

bigdan120

Posted
Posted

That would be my guess. But isnt both front and back seperate with 2 master cylinders? But they are pinned togather at pedal? So wouldnt it have to be both front and rear issues to lose pedal ? If not couldnt it be a rear?

hfrick Enthusiast

hfrick

Posted
Posted

Charlie...your brakes should be 1 master supplys 1 front,and the opposite side rear brake..the other the opposite front/rear combination...kinda like an X ..makes them fun to bleed,normally have to remove 1 of the "push rods",bleed,then switch sides. A common problem is when the master cylinder piston does not return all the way back (up against the circlip) sometimes just cleaning out the "gunk" in the end of the master will allow it to return...bigdan,have done a number of heaters,where did you plumb in and out ? what are you using for a heater ? Hardy

bigdan120 Rising Star

bigdan120

Posted
Posted

I attached one line to the 5/8 hose beside thermastat and the other to the front water pump hose where the tee was.Im using a summit racing after market heater. I have it mounted high at the top my cabin. I am most certain I have a air pocket.

hfrick Enthusiast

hfrick

Posted
Posted

sounds like you already know the problem...the input to the heater is the "almost" 5/8 line,not exactly sure where you returned,but sounds right...that circuit kinda bypasses the rad and themostat...the air lock can be a bit#% to get rid of...can you get your core lower (below head /rad upper hose) at least to bleed out air?...even loosen clamp(s) at heater core while running (carefully) to allow air to escape?...just my 3cents...Hardy

bigdan120 Rising Star

bigdan120

Posted
Posted

Thanks! Your defiantly right. It's not 5/8 dam metric shit. I think I might put in a bleeder in the line. I would lower the unit to bleed it out but I like to make things so I don't have to fool with it again. I might use a Preston flush kit to use as a bleeder.

Thanks Hardy!

hfrick Enthusiast

hfrick

Posted
Posted

Charlie,its awkward...but if you look where the brake "push rod" goes into the master cylinder,you can see the end of the piston...when the brake pedal is released,the piston should come all the way towards you untill it stops right against the snap ring if it doesnt come all the way back it wont allow fluid into your master from the resevior ...sometimes all it takes is to blow the dirt etc out from the end and work back and forth a little to get piston to come all the way back...just my 3cents...Hardy

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