Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Is the fan coming on? If not you likely have a failed thermo switch (drivers side of radiator towards the bottom) or a failed fan. The switch seems to be the more common failure, and relatively cheap to fix. do a search there was a post last year about troubleshooting/replacement with some good pictures.

If the fan is working, you may need to bleed coolant. these can be tricky to bleed. there is an allen setscrew style plug on the drivers side of the engine where the coolant hose goes into the block that you need to loosen to get a good bleed or there can be air stuck at the top of the engine which will reduce/stop coolant circulation.

Posted

Taking the opportunity to say I have received great help from Joe and aefron and have no doubt both know more about these machines than I do!  Both suggestions I have found to be true, while I haven't had fan problems if I ran it around 3000 RPM + in this hot FL weather (90-100 degrees) it tends to run a little warm, like me!!. Where you say "water in the radiator" I'm sure you actually mean "coolant" as a proper mix of anti-freeze, I.E. coolant will run a little cooler. Also I do not remember the name but I believe I bought in an auto parts store or maybe even AMAZON an additive that is suoposed to make it run a little cooler. Not certain if it did but it at least made me think I was helping some!! LOL  Oh, mine is a 2016 MASSIMO MSU 800, which in my mind has been a great machine. Not as nice or as many frills as say a HONDA, and I'm sure not as well built. However a funny thing, a friend had a HONDA, def a nicer machine. He had raised it up with huge tires and the gear boxes or whatever they're called on the axels. Also a snorkel, and could go in 4-5n ft of water! He brought it out to the lease a few time and I noticed if we came up to a 8-10" log across the trail he would always use 2 wheel drive to get over it! I asked why? He said with the oversized tires, wheels etc in 4 wheel drive it many times would break the axels going over logs! !Now he had over 20 grand in his, I had 10!! To each their own!!!   Good luck!

  • Like 1
Posted

Let it warm up with the radiator cap loosen so you don't let it build pressure and scald yourself when removing the cap.   When its warmed up enough so that the thermostat should be opened,  look into the radiator fill port, (not the over flow jug) does the coolant appear to be moving or circulating in any way?  If it is just sitting there, chances are you either have a failed thermostat or a failed water pump.   Also carefully observe to confirm that there are no steady gases or steam being emitted out of the radiator fill.  That would  indicate a head gasket fail.  Further, the coolant should be clean, not discolored or frothy. 

Others may have more and better thoughts on this. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Bryan g
      We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There  is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable.  That dont always fix it.  I went round n round with coleman  on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair "   I told them shift lever does not have enough travel .  No amount of cable adjustment  will increase travel . I  extended lever with piece on flat  iron by 3/4 of inch .  This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely .  Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out,  grease  all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts,  brake hose  routing , make sure not touching exhaust .  These are just  few of the more common failures I see .
    • By dman66
      My buddy has a ut400 that the forward gear keeps popping out of gear. She only has like 400 miles on the odometer .the shift cable has been adjusted and the shift lever has been updated / modified. All other gears are good. Is there an internal detent cam or something that wears out or shift fork that can be replaced ? Or is there some other magic that I can perform ? Looks like the engine needs to be split.
    • By camojay
      When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
      Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
      Other info that may be useful:
      1400 miles on it
      Recently tightened the E brake
      P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
      20240817_133539_1.mp4    
    • By downseast
      Hi everyone
      Recently purchased a 2020 T-Boss 410 in what appears to be good condition
      First time with this machine – I also have a diesel Kawasaki Mule which so far seems a better machine
      It didn’t start and idle well particularly from cold when I got it and sudden take off ( now solved with new clutch parts ) was all or nothing !
      I have replaced the idle valve, throttle position sensor, had the injector professionally checked ( ok) and also the pressure sensor this is a fuel injection engine, also plug and lead etc!
      It still doesn’t run well and when starting I have to hold revs for a while as it wont idle but stall, thereafter its better and I have rebooted the ecu which has improved it
      When I go to start it clicks as if there is a hydraulic lock and wont return after two or three attempts it then does turn over and start bit I need to give it a bit of throttle to start – is this normal ?
      Is there adjustment for the air idle valve ?
      The engine seems rough and with vibration compared to other engines I have been used to but some say this is normal?
      I haven’t changed the Lambda sensor yet, anyone know how much difference this might make ( I have a new Bosch universal to fit )
      Any advice very much appreciated, thanks
    • By Homeowner A
      Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load.  Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out.  It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature.  I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter.  No check engine light.  I don't have a code reader for this.  Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking.  I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good.  Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77.  What should I try or consider next?  
×
×
  • Create New...