Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I know its been talked about before , but after not using the trooper in 2 years I am going to drag it out of storage. Are there other options for shocks out there not any type of take offs from other utvs that can be adapted to the front ? I will have to rebuild the trailing arm mounts, mount arms in double sheer and new bolts. May halso have to replace rear spindle bolts.And diff upgrades But really want to upgrade shock since ride quality is bad.

Posted

Im playing with fox air shocks in the front of mine,have but have not tested fox airs for the rear also...while not cheap,so far the Elka stage 4s on Trevors demo trooper at mudslingers alberta are the nicest Ive driven...and they are bolt in and user/ride style adjustable

Posted

I have air shocks on all four corners fox in the front racerunner in the rear I think I am into them for 1500 maybe and the ride is awesome was out yesterday for a while and I decided onthe way home just to hall ass cause it was getn cold and no issues just my two cents

  • 3 months later...
Posted

hey fellow gear heads im a new guy to the art of owning a joyner, had it for a while now but haveing issues with things purly because im sure the springs are so hard that its rattling to death. ive been reading a lot about this and im in the same boat, i have to change the suspension asap and im not looking to spend much either but those air shocks sound like a good replacemnt if the do well for hard pack and rough terrain where did you find the right fornts ansd rears for yours charlie ???

Posted

My front shocks are fox 8.5 travel I believe 2.0 series I got the from poly performance I had spacers made to put in the existing shock mount hole on the troops cause the bolt size for the fox shocks and factory shocks is different and no issues I think my pressure is 325-350 the rear is race runner Radflo air shock 2.5 10" travel pressure 375-400 I believe I had spacers made for those as well was cheap so I could use the bolt that fit the shock right and would fit the frame. I run limit straps all 4 corners without my toolbox and me I sit about 14" off the ground overall love it the ride is so much better flexs awesome I keep mine in the softer side lots slow riding for me

Posted

Ok thanks I'm looking in to all options even building new mounts to use a completely custom set up I'm kind of a jimmy rigger to make whatever work :-)

Posted

Has anyone tried using rzr 800 rear shocks for the front they are not a 1/2" shorter but don't think they would have a stiff enough spring, I've been playing with the idea of using shocks from a dirt bike if I can find one with the right length and close to decent spring rate cause it's a lot cheaper

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Bloodhound
      Don't know the size anyone know the reliability fo theae
    • By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
    • By Ken rung
      Does Anyone by chance have a owners manual and a shop manual for a 2007 800cc trooper. I just bought one and need to figure out where and how to engage and disengage the 4 wheel drive. Is it electronic or is there a hidden lever. PLEASE HELP
    • By CSM_Retired
      Anyone out there have a street legal UTV? Any idea how to get one registered for on highway use?
      Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...