Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

NEED HELP - i have a 2009 trooper Joyner. the vehicle has a no start condition. no spark or fuel

after changing starter for possible bad soliniod vehicle will not start

there is no spark to the at the sparkplug and the three wire coil wire harness connector has 11.5 volts at each wire

in addition with the ignition switch at KOEO the fuel pump and cooling fan to not operate...no power to the fuel pump.. when the fuel pump is provided 12v directly from battery the pump and fan operate. the fuel switch is broken but had been bypassed and has 12v on both sides

all fuses and relays are in good condition. all fluids at good. battery charged. compression is even on all cylinders

also i can not locate the ALDL connector, it is not in the passenger side glove box area, any suggestions

i have owners manual but it dose not address a no start condition like this.

need help thank you

Posted

was everything working prior to removing starter? is the starter cranking it properly now that you ve changed it? all wires were correctly hooked back up to starter? ..Im not sure what you mean by "fuel switch" ?? maybe main power shutoff??? if the fuel pump and fan are not cycling when you first turn the key to start/run position..and the starter cranks properly..I would start with there being a power/wiring connection problem in the fuse panel behind the drivers seat ..also check ground connections normally found on transmission housing bolt below starter...Hardy

Posted

sounds like you need to look at the wiring to all you relays. look for hot connectors and burnt wires on the back side of the relay sockets.

my 08 has no ALDL connector, not sure about 09s

Have you got a manual for your Trooper, read part and pieces, it'll tell where to down load one.

Posted

thank you for all your assistance.

i am unsure of the condition prior to this post as i received the vehicle in this condition after repairs had been made. i have the manual, but i just got stuck. i did a visual inspection and found no damage to wiring or fuse block. i will check fuse block and grounds with DVOM next time i work on vehicle

i suspect the ECU may have been damaged or i am not getting crank shaft signal to trigger spark/fuel. does any one have a test for ECU or no how to pull codes from this thing?

Thank you again for all your help

Posted

compared to electrical connection problems,ecu rarely has/is the problem burnt or melted wires ..corrosion (inside fuse box and/or in wiring harness plug connections) wiring harness damage,and bad grounds..all quite common as most machines typically were not gone over and well sealed from new...these problems are much more common than a failed component on the trooper..not to say that nothing ever fails,generally if fan and pump are not receiving power to cycle on start up,means ecu is not getting power...just my 3 cents...Hardy

Posted

Also, unless the plastic around the fuse melted or around the base where the relays plug in, a visual check may not reveal the burned wire or the hot spade lug connector that goes to he relay plug, I've seen them still together, but not contacting, pull the fuse relay block that's behind the seat and take a look there. That's where the pump and fan are common and the power for the ecu

PS, fill out your profile so we know more about you and where you are, you may have some one just around the corner who can help and may go ride with

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

dmdc...how did you make out...agreed with Kinarfi as to unbolting fuse block and looking/testing inside as have also found corroded and melted wires and connections on the back side...once repairs are made, recommend try to seal up (weatherproof) fuse box best you can ...Hardy

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear Joyner owners
      Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia  ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
      Currently, we have supply below parts: 
      1.  cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
      2.  Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
      3. Cables, 
      4. Brake parts
      5. Engine parts
      6. Other parts. 
      We will provide better price, close follow up ... 
      We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers  
      Have a good weekend
      Casey /  Leaf Asia 
      2023-11-17
       
    • By Homeowner A
      I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since.  When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at?  
      P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low
      P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low
      P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure
       
    • By Marie
      Hello, we recently got a 2013 Hisun 800 as a little project for my husband and I to work on. Turns out the guys before us loved the mud anyway. We have replaced the stator and now going to do the Rectifier but here is the hold up as seen in the picture. There are tons of wires going to the battery. I cant seem to find anything that shows what wires should, or shouldn't be attached to the battery or where these 2 plugs go. if someone would please take some pics or share knowledge to where they go I would appreciate it greatly.
    • By Matthew Smith
      2013 Bennche Bighorn 700 EFI
       I just picked up this project that I was told would crank, but not start.  This is what I’ve figured out so far….
      I installed a new battery and get all dash lights, head lights, and brake lights on when turning the ignition on.  Fuel pump even turns on.  It does not crank with the key, but would when I jumped the starter solenoid, so I replaced it…..no change.
      Figured I’d check for spark and compression while I was dorking around.  Compression is 150 psi, but there is no spark.  Replaced the spark plug… no change.
      So, is my new starter solenoid bad?  Could it be the brake or gear position switches even though the brakes and neutral lights come on?  Not sure where to go from here.




×
×
  • Create New...