2001 Kawasaki 3010 -can't remove front drive shaft - seems stuck on pinion splines???
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By Xov
Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro. Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model. Hope this will help others as they research.
Intended Use Cases
Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property. The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion. Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus. Experiences So Far
Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing. The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame. I expect a little better QC.
I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage. It isn't quiet; it's silent. I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller. The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4. Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent). The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque. It feels very powerful. All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard. Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more. Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
Power steering is nice, but vague. Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input. Plan early and plan often.
In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart. I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done. After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th.
Until next time...
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By TjB
My dad has recently acquired a 2510 Kawasaki mule Diesel powered. It worked fine few weeks and then quit driving. Put a new belt on just to see. Still not driving. It already had a new clutch. Belt turns when in drive or reverse and back wheels are off ground to test. But wheels not turning. Thoughts?
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By tuell
Hi everyone I have a 2016 hisun vector 550 with 1320 miles on it I recently replaced the clutch the bell the belt the one way bearing basically everything inside the primary and drove approximately one mile my side by side just stopped pulling... no noise no smoke nothing the belt is still good but it's like the transmission will not engage in any gear any help would be greatly appreciated.... I have lifted the rear end and started the side to side put it in gear Wheels do not move but you can turn them by hand
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By rsar
So I finally got my Quad Gear cab enclosure after waiting out the backorder for three months and to say it's been a huge disappointment is a pretty big understatement. I think mostly because I could make it work, if not for one major issue. The windshield is right next to impossible to see out of. It's a real headscratcher because the side and rear windows are okay. It's not high quality 30 or 40 gauge marine vinyl but I have Quad Gear's stand-alone winshield so I knew it wasn't the best in terms of visibility, but definitely doable for the price. Incredibly, the side and rear windows of the cab eclosure are just as clear as the stand-alone windshield. And the windshield on the enclosure is like 50 percent worse than the stand-alone. It's the same company! I don't get it. If it had just been the rear windshield that was that bad I would have kept it. There are some creases and wrinkles here and there, but I've been using the stand-alone windshield for the past three months so it's good enough not to have to shell out $600 plus for the stock hard windshield. I'd put visibility at about 65- 70 percent. The wife hates it though, which is a pretty big negative. In any case, my original plans were to have an upholsterer change the crappy vinyl out for the high quality stuff and I even sent it to a guy who ended up flaking out on me and refusing to do it. He said he didn't want to charge me $400 for something I paid $200 for. Long story, short, I decided to return it and just get the insanely expensive Kawasaki enclosure next winter since the frigid temps here are about to start climbing in a couple weeks anyway. I first put it on just to see how it would look (I took pics of course) and found that it didnt even seal 100 percent and made it drafty inside the cab. So make that two major issues. At least with the stock enclosure everything will be top flight. Doors will be nice too.
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By mcraigchr
Howdy y'all,
I have the service manual, but it leaves me with questions.
1) It is time to change the diff fluid. The service manual says 80w-90 for the rear and Dextron 3 ATF for the front! Is that correct? That seems odd to me.
2) The service manual also speaks of the need to change the transmission fluid but gives no detail about it. What needs to happen here?
3). The service manual also discusses changing the final drive fluid with 80-90 Hypoid. Is the final drive actually the tranny?
Any details about the changing of the fluid or what fluid to use ... or even other things that need to be changed that the manual does not mention would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Craig C.
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