Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

hey guys doing maintenance the trooper need ball-joints but thats besides the point my left front upper and my right front lower suspensions arms were the ball joints sit have a lot of play any one run into this or have a fix for it

Posted

not that many I think Im at 1400 miles give or take. I talked to Casey JMC he has them but I guess this is a common issue went to an offroad shop and they suggested tack welding the balljoints in but I wanted to see if this is happenening to anyone else

Posted

Is the slop in the ball joint or where the ball joint slips into it's pocket in the A Arm? If it's the ball joint, grind off the tack welds, take the top off, drill a hole for a zerk, take a file or Dremel and cut a few lines from top to bottom for grease channels and then screw the top back on and weld it, more than a tack, when you grease them, the pressure of the grease gun forces the ball down and it seals harder against to bottom and you can't put grease in, that's what the lines are for so make sure they go out to bottom. When you screw the top on, make it snug but not binding.

post-90-0-61857300-1431474523_thumb.pngTie Rod Dust Boot, Checker Auto#13566 as shown in Parts and Pieces thread.

Posted

Yes the play is were the balljoints sits in the a arm and the balljoints I have now a greasable idk wear I got them or if I just drilled holes and put zerk fitting in. I talked to a welding shop about havn them tack welded in

Posted

so the balljoint caps screw on I was gonna order 4 new ones from JMC I cant remeber if I drilled the last ones for grease fitting if I got them that way but you can see little weld marks on the top of them and one of them Im pretty sure I bought them that way??

Posted

Charlie..I have put some in with "green" bearing retainer loctite..also sometimes can get a "shim" under the snap ring to tighten them up..have also tack welded in place,just make sure the welds go where you can get at them to grind off next ball joint change...oh yea..and put weight on while loctite sets,or while welding...just my 3cents...Hardy

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SteveS
      While driving the MSU 800, it runs good but it lately it will not go over 20 MPH. The side by side will hesitate when it reaches 21 MPH, but it will run good under 20 MPH. What is the issue?
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By lincolnsq175
      Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
      I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
      Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
      I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
       
      Any info is appreciated.
    • By bms stallion owner
      hello, my BMS Stallion 600 is having accleration issues. the manual fails to show final gear oil diagrams very well... I have the owners manual and suspect issue is associated to transmission , I want to check the level of the gearoil. I located a drain plug (but not the fill plug nor dipstick). It will run - but wont exceede 2mph. Troubleshooting suggestions or comprehensive manual suggestions? Thanks
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
×
×
  • Create New...