Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey I'm just curious how often you all change your fluids you know oil diffs tranny I usually go once a season living in the north east there is some down time due to the winters I usually do few hundred miles a season just curious what you guys are all doing I do use synthetic fluids

Posted

myself.I think with the miles you are making,once a year is perfect..unless I was driving in extreme cold I dont think I would bother with the synthetic,as at a couple hundred miles regular dino oil should never break down on you...however synthetic wont hurt...I also lube cables in the fall as any waterin there will freeze over winter here...the other thing I do every ride is I carry and spray chain wax on front and rear suspension ,hiem joints steering joints and shock pivot points...really keeps the squeeking down and coats parts from water etc...just my 3 cents...Hardy

Posted

Ya that's kinda what I thought and I always spray the home joints down and any pivot points with on blaster every ride and try to get the cables lubed well every few rides

Posted

Last time I replaced the Hiem joints and other joints, I applied a heavy coat of grease to all and then wrapped some polyurethane foam around the joint and secured that with some cheap electrical tape to keep the grease in and the water, mud and dirt out. Seems to be working pretty good.

  • Like 1
Guest Lenny
Posted

There is more to standard oil and synthetic oil then its breakdown. Oil has what is called film strength. Picture this example.Put a drop of water on a waxed surface. It will stay together as one drop. Take a wax blade, say a waxed windshield wiper and press it down on the center of the bubble of water. The water at first stays as one puddle with its center being pushed so that the water under the wiper is shallower. This shallower part becomes thinner and thinner as you push the wiper down and just before the wiper touches the waxed surface there is only a very thin film of water under the blade. In order for the blade to touch the waxed surface it has to press hard enough to overcome the film strength of the water at which time the bubble separates into two bubbles and the wiper is now in contact with the waxed surface. The stronger the film strength of the liquid the more pressure it takes to overcome this film strength and make contact with the lower surface.

Synthetic oil has a much higher film strength and holds it up to a much higher temperature. When something is as poorly built as the differentials in the Joyners, direct contact of matting surfaces is likely to happen at some point. With the better film strength of the synthetic oils, this contact will require more pressure to overcome the its film strength and allow contact. Once the surfaces contact, your in serious trouble and looking at earlier failure. In general, synthetic oils allows you to be harder on your equipment and on worn parts, it will require more ware before contact is allowed. That's why standard oil is advised for break-in of an engine. With synthetic, the rings cannot make good contact with the cylinder walls, which is required to seat the rings. It takes much longer to break-in an engine with synthetic oil.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo 700 MSU. The machine started burning oil all of a sudden. One day fine-- next morning burning oil. Looking for advice. Do I pull the engine to inspect the top end or can it be done with the engine in place? Pro? Cons?
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated in advance.
      Chile
       
    • By Joe Breaux
      Decided to do an oil change on the Massimo ...drained oil, screen was very clean even tho oil wasn't.  Then went to remove old filter.. holy crap ..I tried every tool I have, could not budge it..Went to store and got one of the end cap type..fit nice and tight, put a 1/2 in drive ratchet on it..nope..not moving.  Put a 18 on breaker bar o. It. The inside of the removal tool broke off!!  Had to weld it back together. Put a pipe on the bar for more leverage.  Finally broke it loose..
      I have never seen a filter in my 55 yrs of working on engines so tight..And i was the one who put it on 2 yrs ago.  JUST HAND TIGHT!
       
    • By Aaron Colona
      Just bought a brand new 760 about a month ago. I'm at 20 hours which the book says is when you need to change the break in oil. 
       
      I must be crazy, but I can't find the oil filter. I've googled a million videos...everything seems to be 2019 or lower...and/or a 550.  They all show the filter easily seen by looking in past the rear passenger tire on the engine. There is absolutely nothing there on mine. 
       
      1.there seems to be very little info if you Google a 760, or anything Massimo newer than like 2019. 
       
      2. Does anyone have a current model year 760 that can answer my riddle for me? 
    • By Prepper
      I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines.  There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil.  My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage).  While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure.  Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine.  Could they both be right ???
      Any thoughts ?
       
    • By Some random dude
      2015 Hisun 700 Utv
      the break pedal seems to not fully throw therefore it won’t engage the switch in order to start. 
      it throws enough to stop the UTV but not enough to engage the switch. 
      I used it this morning, started fine, did some work then shut it off to talk to a neighbour and it wouldn’t start after. I can hear the injectors working but the break pedal doesn’t seem to go all the way down. 
×
×
  • Create New...