Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have two automotive scan tools neither worked I talk to silver bullet and no limit Powersports and was told it's a cherry automotive specific tool you need and if I remember mine is right near the fuse box and even behind driver seat

Posted

I have two automotive scan tools neither worked I talk to silver bullet and no limit Powersports and was told it's a cherry automotive specific tool you need and if I remember mine is right near the fuse box and even behind driver seat

I've been all over the area behind the seat (and every where else) and haven't seen anything that looks like a plug. Can you post a photo? My ECU is a Siemens VDO, I wonder if I can contact them for the codes they used. will try

Posted

I have two automotive scan tools neither worked I talk to silver bullet and no limit Powersports and was told it's a cherry automotive specific tool you need and if I remember mine is right near the fuse box and even behind driver seat

I've been all over the area behind the seat (and every where else) and haven't seen anything that looks like a plug. Can you post a photo? My ECU is a Siemens VDO, I wonder if they can tell me the codes.

post-90-0-65848200-1440257654_thumb.jpg

Posted

Mine is a 2009 and it has the obd plug hanging right beside the computer.

Also I talked to my Casey Ye. And she cannot get a scanner cheap enough that we would buy.

Here is an idea. How many sensors are on this machine and can we change computer to an American made? Yeah we would have to rewire it but I have cut my whole plug off computer before just to put it in a water proof case..

Posted

I found the wire I was looking for, it is brought out just past the first connector after leaving the computer, starts as white/green strip and then it is green after the first connector. I hooked my oscilloscope to it and started the engine and all I could see was some voltage spikes, I assume these are telling the OBDII reader it can request data from the ECU. So other than finding where to tie in a plug so I can plug in a reader, I didn't get any closer to finding what was causing my fault light to be on.

Here's some photo I took while finding the wire, I added text to each photo.

post-90-0-36279300-1440384169_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-78536000-1440384188_thumb.jpg

post-90-0-66497400-1440384231_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
    • By staind
      Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM. 
      I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc. 
      I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking. 
      This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
      I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
      This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever. 
      thanks Dan D. aka staind
    • By Ken rung
      Does Anyone by chance have a owners manual and a shop manual for a 2007 800cc trooper. I just bought one and need to figure out where and how to engage and disengage the 4 wheel drive. Is it electronic or is there a hidden lever. PLEASE HELP
    • By rocmoc
      This is rocmoc/Michael one of the first on this forum when the Joyner was one of the most active topics.  First an update of others.  The earlier members will also remember Lenny and Jeff.  With myself we organized the first Jamborees in 2009-2012.  Sadly if you have not heard we lost both Lenny and Jeff in 2018.    A great loss to the community.  Myself:  Still around but rolled over to Jeep and Arctic Cat Wildcat.  The Wildcat  design still remains me of my old 2008 Trooper.  Doing well as the Last Man Standing but cleaning out the garage.  Found some New and used Trooper parts I will list in the parts section.  Wanted to give you all a chance before I list on Ebay.  As many of you knew Lenny listed a lot of stuff on Ebay.  Will I partnered a lot of the stuff with him and I still have stuff.  Take care and I will check in for message should you want to ride.  Still make it to Utah every other year and am still in Southern AZ.
      rocmoc in AZ/Mexico
    • By BMurph
      Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

×
×
  • Create New...