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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Homeowner A
Have a Coleman UTV 400 that cranks, runs, drives well until it gets warm and is put under load. Light throttle or full throttle it doesn't bog, but it will cut out mid throttle if you move the pedal quicker than it seems to like for example when you're getting ready to go up a hill, but if you immediately floor it, it will do just fine and not cut out. It's random if and when it's going to do it, but is consistent in that it happens only when hot/full operating temperature. I've replaced the injector twice, same with the spark plug and tried different heat ranges (NGK 7,8 and 8 iridium), replaced the fuel pump, adjusted the valves, checked air filter which is like new, changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter. No check engine light. I don't have a code reader for this. Initially I thought it might have a head or head gasket issue as when I got it, the oil was over full, very runny like water milky and it was smoking. I've changed the oil since then twice to clear and clean everything out, and it seems to be good. Coolant stays the same level and so does oil with no changes in consistency or need for adding more. Had I think 7-9 miles when I got it and now has about 77. What should I try or consider next?
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By mhill
I purchased a 2008 American Sportsworks Subaru TW265 UTV, with no manual and no previous knowledge. When idling, the steer column shakes uncontrollably, is very noisy, and might be from vibrations from the engine. Logically, I am thinking engine vibration moving up the steering column. I found a schematic, but that has not helped in identifying the specific problem.
Any thoughts? Suggestions?
Thanks so much
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By staind
Looking for information on installing a OBD port or a lite to read codes in ECM.
I can not find a OBD port or a lite to read codes on this R2 with 800cc.
I have code readers and adapters for most ATV's. From what I've found so far. They don't have a connection for to read codes. I may be wrong. That's why I'm asking.
This R2 has had new IAC, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump replaced. This was done by neighbor to try to stop surging. It still surges on start up and then settles down. But once you hit the accelerator it revs up to 2000+ rpm and stays till you block off IAC port in throttle body with finger. Once you do that it once again settles down and idles perfectly.
I want to know what the ECM is reading to help dio it.
This joyner is the first one I've run across. Well second one in a week. (my neighbors 2 of them) The other was a trooper with the 1100cc chery motor that had been setting for years. After cleaning up the fuse box connections. It runs like a top. Had to replace all gages with aftermarket gages. Water, oil, gas, amp. Only problem one was the water temp using original sending unit. Had to install 150 ohm resistor on the input wire to get it to read correctly + - 5 degrees. Close enough. Gas sending unit was/is for a boat tank 6" tall. All SS so it should last forever.
thanks Dan D. aka staind
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By Jim Kessell
2005 American Landmaster
EH65 Subaru Robins
spits fuel from breather hose into the air cleaner and then down into carb. What’s causing this ??
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