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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By CRV
I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines.
if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me
thanks Randy
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By CRV
Howdy new member here . My hobby's Rabbit dogs , gamefowl . I'm retired from my real job but I stay busy with the hounds and gamefowl . So to help around the farm I ran across an old 2007 CC Big Country 4x2 to haul feed , water , sprayer and my sorry a$$ .It is in pretty good shape , 781 hrs. good plastic , tires, ect. . But as anything outside and 18 years old it needs seats ! The thing I have found wrong mechically the Diff. Lock Acturtor is broken where it mounts to the bracket ( partly why Im here ) . Hoping someone here can help ! Just my wish list but Id like to find a roll cage and a composit/plastic top for it Im thinking I'll need a donor to salvage these things from ( again partly why Im here ) .Is there another brand that uses this same actuator? If anyone reads this and has or knows of any of threse parts PLEASE HOLLER !!
Again Howdy brothers & sisters
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By GaryC
Unfortunately my rear Diff housing cracked on my 2013 and I need to replace it or find a good used complete differential. I think the same one was used from 2013-2016? Any help or referrals appreciated. Thanks, Gary (949)370-2575 (in UT)
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By BMurph
Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!
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