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By BMurph
Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!
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By klm
So here is my dilemma, I bought a 2014 Massimo MSU500 eleven years ago from TSC, its never been off the farm, had my share of ups and downs with it but never walked back to the house. I have bought a Kubota Sidewinder and it is a fine machine.Problem is I just dont need the Massimo and would like to sell it but the last thing want to do is sell it (cheap) to someone who doesn't realize what a POS a Massimo can be and can't afford to maintain it. I plan to put it of Craigslist with pictures and description, not sure how to warn potiential buyers without scaring them away. I feel like it could be a great buy for the right person or a terrible buy for the wrong person. I'm thinking $2500.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By boydog40
my subaru gave it up, bought a new Predator 670cc
problems is, wiring the buggy to the new motor, OEM key switch has 5 wires (red, green, yellow, black and brown)
new motor has many more wires than the Subaru and i have no idea what goes where!!!
finding any info on the web is almost impossible to do also
any help will be greatly appreciated!
thanks guys
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By SouthernGypsy
We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
Trying to figure out where it belongs...
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