2010 Big Red 700 Flashing Check Engine Light
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By SayHiToRambo
08 trooper 1100
Bit of background. First the machine would take for ever to start. So I adjusted the valve shims into spec and made sure the timing is correct. Starts perfectly now.
now it fluctuates on idle. Bogs down, Revs up, repeat. I noticed the fuel pressure drops from 60psi to 20psi while that happens. It also bogs down at the lower end of each gear, higher rpm seems to be fine. Seems to struggle under load. In neutral it revs up perfectly.
brand new fuel pump, fuel filter, gas. I noticed on the fuel pressure regulator there’s that vacuum nipple, it’s not attached to anything and I’m not sure where it would go. Possibly the problem?
Another issue is the tip off the end of the exhaust is broken off, sensor is still attached and connected. Could that cause these issues?
my next plan was to look into the pressure regulator and voltage to fuel pump while driving. Is there anything I’m missing or any ideas you guys have?
thanks!
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By BMurph
Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!
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By Jr Perez
I need help when I put the key in and put to on position the neutral light turns on then shuts off I tried moving the shift linkage but the neutral light won't turn on it only has 651 miles cranks fine 2019 tboss 550
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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