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TROOPER GENERAL COMMENTS & QUESTIONS, VARIED SUBJECT LINES


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Guest Lenny
Posted

You might want to go to a fastenall nut and bolt distributor. They should have one in your area. bring your part in with you. They're well versed in fasteners and should be willing to contact their main engineering people about the best solution. Now days there are some awfully sufisticated fasteners on the market that are way beyond grade 8. I have to beleive that you can find a bolt that just will not brake or shear off. Loc-tite is very reliable but you must have the bolt threads and hole threads real clean. Use acetone or better yet, a good strong degreaser and make sure everything is dry. Securing wires shouldn't be necessary with the properly used loc-tite. Looks like your lucky and your fix shouldn't be more then about $30. Have to give you credit, most with your handicap would back off playing hard. Glad to see your not afraid to go for it. If your this tough now, you must have been an animal before your accident.

Lenny

Posted

Boy are you lucky. I would have loved to have had diff trouble compared to what I did. You could also contact a good local Speed/Race/Off-Road Shop.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Guest Lenny
Posted
You might want to go to a fastenall nut and bolt distributor. They should have one in your area. bring your part in with you. They're well versed in fasteners and should be willing to contact their main engineering people about the best solution. Now days there are some awfully sufisticated fasteners on the market that are way beyond grade 8. I have to beleive that you can find a bolt that just will not brake or shear off. Loc-tite is very reliable but you must have the bolt threads and hole threads real clean. Use acetone or better yet, a good strong degreaser and make sure everything is dry. Securing wires shouldn't be necessary with the properly used loc-tite. Looks like your lucky and your fix shouldn't be more then about $30. Have to give you credit, most with your handicap would back off playing hard. Glad to see your not afraid to go for it. If your this tough now, you must have been an animal before your accident.

Lenny

I thought of a few things to add to this. Be sure you torque the new bolts really tight. If the original bolts were not torqued correctly, there would be more stretch left in them. Over time they can stretch that last bit, loosening the joint, allowing movement. Now the joint slops back and forth eventually shearng the bolts off. Thats why on large strtuctural steel buildings, correct bolt torque is such a important and watched issue. Also to help prevent any movement between the 2 surfaces, put sand paper marks in each surface. These marks should project out radially from the center so that the marks of each peice line up (sort of) when the peices are placed together. This makes the two surfaces sort of get a hold of each other making it much harder to slide one on the other. I've used this trick for years. Had things that I couldn't get to stay put until I did this. Also make sure the surfaces are perfectly clean and use a light film of loc-tite. On structurel buildings, there are two things that make the bolts hold the joint. The bolt holds the steel to gather but a 3/4" bolt will use a 13/16" hole. It's the friction that is created from the pressure between the two surfaces that keeps the joint from sliding. If it weren't for that, with the hole slop, the whole structure could be racked around like a loose erector set. ( the young guys won't remembet those ) In theory, if a building were put together with c-clamps that pinched the joints together as tight as the bolts do, the building would stand strong.

Remember, loc-tite only works correctly with clean surfaces.

Lenny

Posted

Took it to show my dealer, and took a few more photos, If I rebuild it, I figure new bearings, seals, housing, the works. Hope Joyner will cover it. We'll see.

2550792020104282158uoDdYy_th.jpg

While over at the dealers, I took a few photos of the new tires he had put on, 29X11X14,2335008890104282158wTFvES_th.jpg go Full Size and read the side of the tire, 7 PSI max pressure.

Guest Lenny
Posted
Took it to show my dealer, and took a few more photos, If I rebuild it, I figure new bearings, seals, housing, the works. Hope Joyner will cover it. We'll see.

2550792020104282158uoDdYy_th.jpg

While over at the dealers, I took a few photos of the new tires he had put on, 29X11X14,2335008890104282158wTFvES_th.jpg go Full Size and read the side of the tire, 7 PSI max pressure.

Nice tires. Might want to see of Joyner has done anything with diferent diff gearing. They were thinking about it. However that requires changing the gears in both diffs. The fact that the housing broke out might be enough to get Joyner to cover it for you. Drop them a note and be sure to state after your name as such.

"Jeff

UTV board moderator"

Lenny

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